tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post290876866078088139..comments2024-03-20T02:26:18.297-04:00Comments on Sublime Layers: Delta Arm Joint MusingsSublimeLayershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266175443539080935noreply@blogger.comBlogger15125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-79893465041924065042017-11-12T22:12:12.397-05:002017-11-12T22:12:12.397-05:00Rick, I would try to get to the bottom of why you ...Rick, I would try to get to the bottom of why you have crashes. That is not normal. I can't recall the last time I've crashed an effector. This can happen when you are commissioning a new printer but once it's operational it should be a rare event. What is causing your crashes?SublimeLayershttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07266175443539080935noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-5804545989748698562017-11-12T21:35:15.298-05:002017-11-12T21:35:15.298-05:00I am currently using metallic rod-end bearings. ...I am currently using metallic rod-end bearings. There is a little bit of back lash, but I mitigated that with three springs. With my servos locked I can still move the effector around a bit and here lies the main problem. The linkage to the carriage and the diminutive diameter (5mm) of my rods appear to be the main culprit. Nonetheless, I am building another machine with extruded aluminum end pieces making the frame fairly stiff. In addition, I am using magnetic bearings (12mm cups and 10mm balls) with 6 mm rods. The biggest benefit using mag bearings is that when I crash my effector, the rods will simply fall off instead of distressing something that will later need to be adjusted. Rick_Hhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/00490096582887078573noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-35790156924886703612017-11-02T11:27:31.822-04:002017-11-02T11:27:31.822-04:00Yes, I actually have tried them and they are bette...Yes, I actually have tried them and they are better. However, they are not large enough for larger deltas. On small deltas like a mini Kossel they work well though. There are many other higher precision (and also higher cost) ball rod ends but it all comes down to price vs performance.SublimeLayershttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07266175443539080935noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-90854626407209603662017-11-02T11:00:05.829-04:002017-11-02T11:00:05.829-04:00Hi Michael, I seen many posts about traxxas swive...Hi Michael, I seen many posts about traxxas swivels having slop, I made carbon push rods for RC airplanes and always used Dubro because they are tight, anyone ever try Dubros?<br />but a dozen Dubro heavy duty swivel ball links costs about $28, so maybe its not worth it.Fireflyhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10460025363767436078noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-31171502655419391222017-06-07T10:01:30.604-04:002017-06-07T10:01:30.604-04:00That's a good question about morning direction...That's a good question about morning direction. The axial mounting for mag balls works best due to simplicity - its easy to put the magnet in line embedded in the arm (CF tube). With these you could do it either way. Both designs would minimize slop - the main advantage to this style of joint. But installing them axially would require more effort for the tensioning spring or springs as they would have to be coaxial also. With the SeeMeCNC cup arrangement, the spring placement is very simple. I'd go with the proven simpler approach.SublimeLayershttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07266175443539080935noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-9104305219581325162017-06-07T09:35:32.256-04:002017-06-07T09:35:32.256-04:00No I haven't tested it out yet; my printer is ...No I haven't tested it out yet; my printer is currently down ( finishing up an upgrade to Duet WIFI). I think youre definitely right about the offset causing rotation, and I designed (with my very limited CAD skills) a cup holder that puts them at the end of the rods with the center axis parallel to and in line with the center axis of the rods (like most mag ball setups; of course this would require tension between the carriage and effector rather than between the rods, like the Cherry Pi III). I posted the STL file here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2370865<br /><br />Assuming mounting isn't an issue, do you think one way is better than the other as far as parallel vs perpendicular goes? It seems the SeeMeCNC style would be much easier to (re)mount after removing the effector... and also, with the Cherry Pi method, attaching the tensioner/spring exactly in the center of the carriage and effector is critical to maintaining equal tension throughout the range of motion. But thats all I can think of and Im not sure if one is preferable in terms of kinematics/articulation.<br /><br />Hero of Truth and Wisdom of The Internet, and you're Welcome.https://www.blogger.com/profile/12949653627035166564noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-9851150692626492582017-06-07T07:58:27.258-04:002017-06-07T07:58:27.258-04:00Tyler, these are indeed interesting and worth taki...Tyler, these are indeed interesting and worth taking a closer look at. I see your sketch on mounting these with a holder at http://i747.photobucket.com/albums/xx119/tylerjmast/RoMax%20v2/traxxas4933x-15.jpg. The commercial ball cup joints (including SeeMeCNC and TrickLaser) put the cup in-line with the rod. If they are offset like your drawing, there is risk that the arm/cup can rotate around the ball as it is not a stable configuration. Have you tested this or considered this potential issue?SublimeLayershttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07266175443539080935noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-65493573852956901082017-06-07T07:53:06.522-04:002017-06-07T07:53:06.522-04:00Ive been meaning to make use of these for a while ...Ive been meaning to make use of these for a while now and Im just now finally getting around to it; they're Traxxas #4933X. They are hard-anodized, Teflon-coated, 7075 aluminum ball studs with nylon or delrin sockets included. Ball diameter is about 10.49mm and stud is m5. They seem perfect for this use and Im surprised that Ive never seen them used before (at least not the 4933X version; the 4933 version is discussed in a thread on the SeeMeCNC forums, which is how I came across these). Here are some pictures I took:<br /><br />http://i747.photobucket.com/albums/xx119/tylerjmast/RoMax%20v2/traxxas4933x-34.jpg<br /><br />http://i747.photobucket.com/albums/xx119/tylerjmast/RoMax%20v2/traxxas4933x-74.jpg<br /><br />http://i747.photobucket.com/albums/xx119/tylerjmast/RoMax%20v2/traxxas4933x-70.jpg<br /><br />http://i747.photobucket.com/albums/xx119/tylerjmast/RoMax%20v2/traxxas4933x-25.jpg<br /><br />Hero of Truth and Wisdom of The Internet, and you're Welcome.https://www.blogger.com/profile/12949653627035166564noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-7281792663696275132017-05-28T19:06:06.528-04:002017-05-28T19:06:06.528-04:00Done, subscribed.
My standard print speed is set ...Done, subscribed.<br /><br />My standard print speed is set at 60mm/s with ext perimeters and details at 35mm/s (when feeling bold I bumpit up to 80mm/s). So great, I'm glad that considering the extra mass, those values will work fine.<br />As for arms and joints, I have the ball cups but still stuck with the old Rambo board. Apart from the vertical banding issue, it prints fine.<br /><br />Yes, Repetier lets you change them in EEPROM. Stock values: <br />Max Jerk 32mm/s <br />Acceleration 1850mm/s^2 <br />Travel acceleration 3000mm/s^2<br /><br />Martin Shttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02209009596740863576noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-63693097008454457372017-05-28T09:13:48.922-04:002017-05-28T09:13:48.922-04:00Hi Martin, I am in the process of updating my them...Hi Martin, I am in the process of updating my theme and the subscribe was missing. I've added it now to the upper right panel!<br /><br />Like all things, its a tradeoff between the extra mass of a direct drive extruder vs the hysteresis of a Bowden system. I've done enough testing and printing now with the Aero, Bondtech BMG and the UltiBots Micro Extruder (all direct) to appreciate that on large format deltas and form my requirements, direct drive gives much better print quality - significantly reduced stringing and blobbing. I don't print at 120mm/s but I do routinely print at 80mm/s and all of these are fine. You do have to have a well set-up machine (arms, joints, etc) but that's pretty easy with mag balls or SeeMeCNC's ball cup joints. With Duet setting the jerk and acceleration is really simple. I don't recall if Repetier requires these to be compiled in or if they can be set in EEPROM. <br /><br /><br />SublimeLayershttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07266175443539080935noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-27298263476370256222017-05-28T09:02:04.244-04:002017-05-28T09:02:04.244-04:00Hello Michael, thanks for sharing your insight and...Hello Michael, thanks for sharing your insight and experimentation, I always learn something new from this blog. <br />Looking forward to your review of the Titan Aero. I'm considering installing it on my Rostock Max as a direct drive extruder, but the weight of it scares me a little. Also, I've been told that jerk and acceleration would need to be adjusted... and there, I'm lost :P<br /><br />Excuse my english.<br />Cheers, Martin. <br /><br />PS: Is there a way to subscribe to this blog?Martin Shttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02209009596740863576noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-56917370798345066732017-04-24T15:36:38.189-04:002017-04-24T15:36:38.189-04:00The other place where magballs can be problematic ...The other place where magballs can be problematic is if you move to one of the new direct drive extruders like the E3D Titan Aero or the Bondtech BGM. The UltiBots micro extruder (also direct drive) works well though on their D300VS delta that has magball arms. I have not weight all three of these options but I am planning to do that soon.<br /><br />That's a nice solution to hold magball arms together, thanks for the post and link.SublimeLayershttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07266175443539080935noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-61455471434272085482017-04-24T15:32:26.412-04:002017-04-24T15:32:26.412-04:00I had my Delta printers at MRRF last month using m...I had my Delta printers at MRRF last month using magnetic ball ends. Actually, the rods have steel balls, and the magnets are countersunk disk magnets glued to receptacles on the carriages and the end effector. As you mentioned in your text above, without a separate means of holding the magnetic assembly in place, the rods can come loose if the extruder hits a bump, or if the arm is shocked. I added retainers consisting of extension springs and spectra fishing line to the centerline of each arm assembly. The springs absorb shocks, and keep the magnets in place.<br />Here is a video describing my printer:<br />https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jT24ClLlQKo<br />I discuss the retaining springs at 3:50 into the video.<br />The design is open source:<br />http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2139033Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/14940760090409080241noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-20941910283263606242017-04-07T14:01:54.594-04:002017-04-07T14:01:54.594-04:00Make sure to post photos of those Joshua. Matt (71...Make sure to post photos of those Joshua. Matt (713Maker) does great work (as does Brian at TrickLaser). Excellent aftermarket upgrades. Thanks for the feedback too.SublimeLayershttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07266175443539080935noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-2326618459713379222017-04-07T13:45:13.218-04:002017-04-07T13:45:13.218-04:00I have tried everything but the magball type. I li...I have tried everything but the magball type. I like the tricklaser CF and red ends, but I will be installing the effector and truck adapters Tony K. designed and 713maker is machining them for me this weekend. I bought the 304mm magball arms from ultibots.com. I also will be installing your FSR plate from tricklaser. I am really looking forward to the results, once I get it tune in I would like to print one of your reels for my son's fish fishing trip! Your Blogs are the best information I have found and I very much appreciate your sharing with everyone.Anonymoushttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10802463100587336211noreply@blogger.com