tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-10248485583361198652024-03-15T15:52:27.872-04:00Sublime LayersMusings and Experiments on the Art and Science of 3D PrintingSublimeLayershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266175443539080935noreply@blogger.comBlogger103125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-4920460999145826632019-09-29T12:01:00.001-04:002019-09-29T12:08:47.053-04:00KISS Ironing<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="270" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/2Cc7HXvQCOQ" width="480"></iframe><br />
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Here are the high resolution versions of the photo of the part. This was a single layer 75mm test part printed in SnoLabs' Raspberry Purple PLA+.<br />
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<br />SublimeLayershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266175443539080935noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-11684587889080172132019-05-21T17:50:00.000-04:002019-05-21T17:50:24.980-04:00Dynamic Infill Density in the new KISSlicer v2 alphaA new release of KISSlicer V2 alpha came out today with new features for free, pro and premium users. One of the new premium features that I'm really excited about is Dynamic Infill Density. I've posted a YouTube video showing how it works.<br />
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You can download this new alpha version on the <a href="http://www.kisslicer.com/download-v2-alpha.html" target="_blank">KISSlicer web site</a>. If you are a Premium user and would like to try Dynamic Infills, here is the <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fWV1KxpcgMNqKUaFCKaMBrg3z1wo06D4/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">radial-whitemiddle.jpg</a> file I used in the video.SublimeLayershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266175443539080935noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-64888515534132211292019-03-20T15:34:00.002-04:002019-03-21T09:43:48.704-04:0048 Hrs with the new Prusa SL1 SLA Printer!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Prusa selected me to beta test the new <a href="https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/717-original-prusa-sl1.html" target="_blank">Prusa SL1</a> SLA printer and I received it on Monday afternoon (exactly 48 hrs from when I'm writing this). I'll let you read the specs on the web site so I can focus on the beta testing here.</div>
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I had dabbled in DLP resin printers a few years ago with the SeeMeCNC Droplit printer kit. It was an interesting printer but the slicing and control software was just way too immature at that time. So, in addition to the printer itself, I was very interested to see what Prusa did with the software. I've frequently commented that one of the big strengths of the Prusa i3 printer's success is due to the phenomenal job Prusa has done seamlessly integrating the firmware, slicer and printer itself. The entire user experience (not to mention quality of results) requires such a holistic approach. I suspected that the SL1 would be similar (and I was correct).</div>
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Let's start with the unboxing. I received two large boxes. One contained the SL1 and the other contained the optional washing curing station.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Professional and protective packaging </td></tr>
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The Gummy Bears are always well received - and short lived!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sl1 internal packing</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The CW1 part washer and UV curing station accessories box</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is the CW1 </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">They make an attractive couple</td></tr>
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<span style="text-align: left;">The SL1 box contained an instruction sheet for beta testers with a link to a private Web site to get the setup guide, links to a series of questionnaires we are asked to fill out as we unpack, setup, calibrate and print (beta testing isn't all fun and games, we do have to put some skin in the game too!)</span></div>
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I started with the unpacking. Everything was well packed and attractive. First impressions are everything and the SL1 and CW1 delivered a great first impression. I was surprised at how heavy the SL1 was - it is mostly aluminum with a big linear rail and ball screw for the Z axis. The CW1 is also well built and contains a stainless washing container and rack.</div>
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Once set up, I plugged everything in and powered up. The first task was to connect the SL1 to my wifi network. The SL1 has built-in wifi <i>and</i> Ethernet! Connection was simple. The next step was to check for firmware updates. None were available so it was time to move on to calibration.</div>
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First, a couple of comments about the <i>SL1 Handbook</i>. Prusa gets an A+ for their documentation and this beta handbook is no exception. Sure there were some images missing and some info needed updating (that's what beta testers do you know) but overall it was complete and really well designed documentation.</div>
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Ok, now on to calibration. I read the Calibration process in the guide and then turned to the machine. The control panel is beautiful - full color, crisp and clear. Sorry for the poor photos but it is tricky to shoot an LCD display. Let's just say that the colors are clean and crisp. Black background with orange and white text and icons - very professional looking.</div>
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The <i>Settings</i> button takes you to the calibration procedure. I'll blog more about calibration later but will say it is a quick (5 minute) process and you only have to do it once. The LCD display includes FULL COLOR photos of the actual process - this is really nice. I know some minor changes are in the works for this part of the calibration so I won't post photos here now.</div>
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The printer comes loaded with pre-sliced sample models (4 of them) and there is a button to download models - so as Prusa releases more pre-sliced models, it will be a 1-click action to get them.<br />
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Before jumping into printing I should also add that there is a beautiful web interface to the SL1 too. It looks and works just like the built-in control panel. You point your browser at the printer's hostname or IP address and enter its unique API Key and you are connected. The web interface works great from your iPhone or Android phone too. Under the covers, Prusa has built a custom server with a custom user interface. This should give you a better idea of what the on-board display looks like too.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RMcmNQyW50k/XJKXUZQEWnI/AAAAAAAAFb4/I06rght890QZmKviyoVrvak2KrDVujiagCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2019-03-20%2Bat%2B3.40.31%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="258" data-original-width="1142" height="90" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RMcmNQyW50k/XJKXUZQEWnI/AAAAAAAAFb4/I06rght890QZmKviyoVrvak2KrDVujiagCLcBGAs/s400/Screen%2BShot%2B2019-03-20%2Bat%2B3.40.31%2BPM.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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One nice detail - the Web interface makes a gentle "tick" sound when you click a button that sounds just like the on-board panel.<br />
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Now to the fun part - printing. Prusa included 500ml of "Prusa orange" resin. There was a 1l bottle of red resin in the CW1 box, so I have a little to play with. I'm looking for sublime green resin for 405nm DLP printers so post a comment if you know of anything!<br />
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Here is one of the included files - a small delicate flower. It is about 20mm across (the petals, the "leaves" are about 35mm). The detail is fantastic and got me excited to do something bigger. At this point I washed the print with a squirt bottle filled with IPA and cured it in the CW1. I don't have enough IPA to wash it in the CW1 - I have 4 gallons of 99% IPA arriving tomorrow though!<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YwaaWWkx6i0/XJKRTTm-j5I/AAAAAAAAFbk/NCi6rjWO-GMeuW5U9MmLJm7iFKLSBsEvQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_0601.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1527" data-original-width="1495" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YwaaWWkx6i0/XJKRTTm-j5I/AAAAAAAAFbk/NCi6rjWO-GMeuW5U9MmLJm7iFKLSBsEvQCLcBGAs/s320/IMG_0601.jpg" width="313" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">The next print is the infamous Eiffel Tower. It is the standard SLA model everyone must print. This one stands 130mm tall. Again, the resolution is amazing. I was running out of IPA so my washing was not very good. By way of disclaimer I should also say that this print suffered from partial separation of one leg from the build surface. The reason for this has been found and fixed so it won't affect production SL1s. This is why companies do external beta testing and I give Prusa lots of credit to taking the time to do it right.</span></div>
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Prusa has added features to the Slic3r Prusa edition to support the SL1 so slicing is straightforward. One really nice feature is that Slic3r can connect to the SL1 so you can print directly from it. The SL1 does not require proprietary resins and new resin profiles are being added. I have some resins on order and will profile those once they arrive.<br />
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I'll have the SL1 at the Midwest RepRap Festival in Indiana next week so stop by my Sublime Publications booth and take a look.<br />
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SublimeLayershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266175443539080935noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-56352704646384741742019-02-18T08:33:00.000-05:002019-02-18T08:33:04.008-05:00It's official, pathio slicer is in the wild!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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E3D Online has gone public with their <a href="https://pathio.xyz/hello-world/" target="_blank">announcement of pathio </a>today - their new slicer written from the ground up as the next generation slicer. I was an <i>early</i> alpha tester and consultant for the project and have watched it come to life - originally code named FishSlice. The pathio team is smart and they have approached pathio development holistically, including a dedicated (and talented) user interface designer as well as some smart engineers. The intent is to be community focused and engage active community members in ways no other slicer before has done. This is exciting news and well needed in the 3D printing world.<br />
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At this point, pathio is available to the public to download, try and get involved in its development. Today pathio is primarily a beta version but there are some rough edges, so make sure to read the release notes and participate in the new community at <a href="https://community.pathio.xyz/">https://community.pathio.xyz</a>. Also make sure to read the announcement post above as it really does a good job of describing what pathio is all about and the unique features it will be introducing. One thing I can say about pathio is that the top surfaces of printed parts are spectacular. I know my way around g-code and I can't tell what magic foo foo dust they've put in there but it works whatever it is.<br />
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I'll be blogging and YouTubing more over the coming weeks on how to set up pathio and get the most from it while avoiding some of the (temporary) hot spots. So jump in and give it a try and let the community know what you think.<br />
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Here are some photos of one of my parts on the platter and sliced.<br />
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<br />SublimeLayershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266175443539080935noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-42251489406236904182019-01-22T17:59:00.001-05:002019-01-22T17:59:37.541-05:00E3D Beta30 Tool Changer UpdateI've been hard at work (well, it's mostly fun) commissioning the tool changer. Lots of new stuff to learn, lots of experimentation - just my sort of project.<br />
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It took a little while to learn how to properly calibrate the nozzle X, Y and Z offsets. I'll be posting a video and information on that later this week. But, now that I've printed my fair share of single layer tests and a few multi-tool tests, I'm ready for a more serious project - <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2623132" target="_blank">Lubie's Adalinda remixed for four colors.</a> A spectacular print in one color, I can't wait to see it in four. The photo above shows the first 8 layers starting to take shape. I'm slowly refining KISSlicer to produce great results. It's a bit of a challenge with four 850mm long Bowdens to deal with though!<br />
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I've spent some time on the tool change and wipe macros to try to reduce overall tool change time and improve print quality (i.e. no blobs or strings). I still have more to do but so far things are looking good. I use a series of silicone pads to wipe on as I feel that gives me a good clean wipe - much like a squeegee. Here is a video showing some printing and then a tool change from start to finish.<br />
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<br />SublimeLayershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266175443539080935noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-86880626056114842822019-01-06T17:26:00.000-05:002019-01-06T17:26:53.198-05:00Capricorn tubing - not the greatest thing since all-metal hot ends!I'm continuing to commission and complete the details on my E3D tool changer printer. Over the weekend I calibrated all four tools (hot ends) for Z offset. In the process I printed a small part with each tool. I was aghast at the horrible parts I was observing. On all four tools yet. Something was not right. Was it a slicing issue? A firmware issue? Something wrong in setting up the tools?<br />
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The problem looked like typical filament starvation (usually due to an improperly set up extruder or hot end) with visible gaps in the perimeters and missing sections of infill. I know my slicers inside and out so after making sure I wasn't doing anything odd (KISSlicer) I was confident these artifacts weren't due to a slicing issue. I then thought maybe a bad configuration for filament advance in RepRapFirmware might be the culprit. The config.g was provided by E3D and has required some tweaking by us beta testers. But, after going through config.g with a fine tooth comb, I found nothing wrong.<br />
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The extruders are Bondtech BMGs and one of them has had some limited service, so I was very confident in it. There is virtually no way to misconfigure a BMG. The tools are E3D V6s. I've worked with E3D all metal hot ends since the v4 days and know how to set one up properly. Even so, <i>maybe</i> I might accidentally mess up one, but all four? Not a chance.<br />
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So, I followed my own advice and slowed things down and printed at 20mm/s while I carefully observed. The problem persisted at slow speed and I noticed that the filament "starving" happened at the start of a new segment after a previous one ended - <i>i.e.</i> it might be retract related. Retract was configured to .5mm for these test prints, that shouldn't be an issue. Once going, the filament flowed freely.<br />
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I scratched my head on this one. I took a hot end apart and tested by hand pushing filament - it was smooth as silk. I then removed the lever and spring from the Bondtech BMG and pushed filament through it, again smooth. Then I pushed filament through the bondtech up the 800mm of Capricorn tubing. That's when I felt a fair amount of resistance. With nothing else noticeably different, I swapped the Capricorn for normal PTFE tubing and the problem went away! I've done 2 tools now and tried 3 different filaments before and after and the problem IS the Capricorn tubing. Here are some photos.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ca1k7ux0U-A/XDJ-qSIxANI/AAAAAAAAFT4/4Fx3iyGcoL0e-bSwegWJhkJ4lIfEHzSlgCLcBGAs/s1600/Capricorn.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ca1k7ux0U-A/XDJ-qSIxANI/AAAAAAAAFT4/4Fx3iyGcoL0e-bSwegWJhkJ4lIfEHzSlgCLcBGAs/s400/Capricorn.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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This part printed with Capricorn was one of the better ones but it had large areas of missing infill and perimeter gaps. The ONLY difference between these two prints is Capricorn vs generic 2mm ID PTFE tubing for the Bowden. So I'm sitting on ~4 meters of Capricorn that is going into the rubbish. Can PTFE be recycled?</div>
<br />SublimeLayershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266175443539080935noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-13582788817762900772019-01-05T15:48:00.000-05:002019-01-05T18:41:02.314-05:00Mosaic Palette 2 - Understand and Control Color Bleeding<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A print showing color bleed of red into the pearl white. Yuck!</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Much better! Read on to learn how to get results like this.</span></td></tr>
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I've been having a lot of fun with my <a href="https://www.mosaicmfg.com/" target="_blank">Palette 2</a> over the last few months. By way of disclaimer, Mosaic gave me a P2 as a thank you for being a product tester over the last year or so. But, free or not, if a product doesn't live up to my high demands (and expectations) I will not endorse or promote it.<br />
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The P2 is a remarkable machine, completely redesigned from its predecessor, and capable of producing outstanding prints. However, like all things in life, a little understanding will go a long way to get the best results. One problem that new owners complain about - and usually mischaracterize as a splice calibration error - is color bleed. Splice calibration errors result in <i style="font-weight: bold;">pure</i> color being printed in the wrong place.<br />
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Look at this closeup photo of the salamander's head:<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Zsm35fnSRUg/XDEA2mm2ONI/AAAAAAAAFTQ/JxKL4CaX-QsTxVlG58VUaquAc1uM4kmlQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_0423-crop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="999" data-original-width="1200" height="332" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Zsm35fnSRUg/XDEA2mm2ONI/AAAAAAAAFTQ/JxKL4CaX-QsTxVlG58VUaquAc1uM4kmlQCEwYBhgL/s400/IMG_0423-crop.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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That light pink is not the same as the pure red in the eye. It is color bleed and really doesn't have much to do with the P2 at all - except that you can minimize or prevent it if you understand what causes it and do some quick experiments to refine transition tower tuning in Chroma or CANVAS (I highly recommend CANVAS - it is both a slicer and the Palette's magic software). This post will walk you through the color bleed tuning I've developed to achieve results like the second photo.<br />
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</h4>
<h3>
What is "bleed"?</h3>
First, some comments about why bleed happens. The simple answer is "we don't know exactly why it happens"! Bleed is not unique to Palette - it also affects multiple extrusion hot ends that merge two or more filaments through a single nozzle orifice like the <a href="https://e3d-online.com/cyclops" target="_blank">E3D Cyclops</a>. Practically speaking, the outgoing filament is not being completely purged by the incoming filament. That's the simple part to understand and adjust in Palette (or even Cyclops). However, some filaments seem to find hiding places somewhere in the hot end from which they bleed out at the most inopportune moments.<br />
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Years ago I noticed that every once in a great while, a streak of black PLA would creep into a light colored PLA print. In some cases, I had not printed black PLA for several prints! This black must have found some nook or cranny to hide in. We have some ideas on this but these can not explain all circumstances. More work and experiments are needed to improve our understanding. And through understanding comes superb prints!<br />
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In general, some types of filament bleed worse than others. ABS does not seem to be prone to a lot of bleeding. It does bleed, but is usually purged cleanly. PETG is another one that is not highly prone to bleeding. PLA seems to be the worse of the lot and certain colors like red and black bleed worse than other colors.<br />
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In theory, the new, incoming filament, should push the previous filament out the nozzle without leaving behind any remnants. This must not be happening, otherwise there would be no bleeding. So let's think about what's happing in practice.<br />
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<ol>
<li>The filament is smaller diameter than the bore it is being pushed through. Even in the heater block area, the bore is larger than the unmelted filament diameter. The Palette works with 1.75mm (nominal) filament and the bores of most 1.75mm hot ends are actually 2.0mm. This leaves quite a bit of room between solid filament and the inner walls of the extrusion path. Perhaps molten outgoing filament can "circle back" and flow up and fill that space. Retracts - especially long 2mm retracts - might exacerbate the problem by pulling the outgoing filament up and around the cold incoming filament.</li>
<li>The length of the melt zone increases the amount of molten filament. The more molten filament there is, the more trouble it can get into like filling voids and pushing up the extrusion path.</li>
<li>The extrusion path may have hiding places. Consider the E3D V6 hot end. Its nozzle is tightened up against the end of the heat break. This could leave a little gap - especially if the edge of the bore is chamfered slightly. There may be other hiding places depending on the construction of the hot end. Also, the extrusion path may not be polished or slippery enough to keep molten filament from sticking to it. We already have some evidence that Chinese knock-off V6 "style" hot ends are not machined and polished to the same exacting tolerances as a true E3D hot end. Photos of the bore of the heat break looks like the surface of the moon. It's easy to imagine filament getting stuck and collecting in all of the grooves and scratches.</li>
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Here is a close up photo of a Chinese V6 heat break. This photo was taken by Bruce Jenkins (used with permission) and was posted on the Palette Facebook group as part of a conversation on bleed. You can clearly see the annular grooves in the bore waiting to trap and hold molten filament.</div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TR2laFr8mx0/XDERhsy5pTI/AAAAAAAAFTY/80W6kFDDw7wDIWmzGb1jsy1eOXnooRMogCLcBGAs/s1600/49442060_1121124154716015_6276510205299654656_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="596" data-original-width="562" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TR2laFr8mx0/XDERhsy5pTI/AAAAAAAAFTY/80W6kFDDw7wDIWmzGb1jsy1eOXnooRMogCLcBGAs/s400/49442060_1121124154716015_6276510205299654656_n.jpg" width="376" /></a></div>
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There are most likely are other contributors too. But let's look at these three categories and try to understand if there is anything we can do to improve the situation.</div>
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Case 1: space between the solid filament and the extrusion path</h4>
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The extrusion path bore must be slightly larger than the filament diameter to accommodate differences in diameter from one filament to the next - or even within the same filament. It might be possible to reduce the bore to 1.85mm or so but that would require carefully monitoring your filament to make sure it doesn't cause a problem.</div>
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Some knowledgeable people have studied this problem in the past and one of them, Jetguy, referred me to some discussion on PTFE lined hot ends like the V6 Lite. The PTFE lining extends all the way to the nozzle and does several things: it's much slipperier than polished metal, it insulates the melt area to more localize the melt zone and as it heats it expands and decreases the inner bore diameter (because the outer diameter is constrained by the metal hot end. I am planning to do some direct comparison tests of V6 vs V6 Lite hot ends to test this.</div>
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Case 2: melt zone length</h4>
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The length of the melt zone is primarily determined by the thickness of the heat block. So, shortening this block could result in less molten filament to bleed. Another contributor to the melt zone is the efficiency of the heat exchanger above the heat block. In an all metal hot end like the V6, the heat break helps minimize the flow of heat up into the exchanger but if you've ever had a heat exchanger fan die or disconnect, you'll know first hand that the filament will melt for a cm or more up into the exchanger. So, more efficient exchanger cooling could also minimize bleed. The most efficient cooling is water cooling. I've been an advocate of water cooling for many other reasons but it might also have a positive effect to minimize bleeding. Again, another experiment to conduct!<br />
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<h4>
Case 3: extrusion path hiding places</h4>
Removing hiding places may be as simple as using a high quality hot end that's been machined and polished to precision or replacing inferior components like a heat break with a quality component. PTFE lined hot ends are certainly smoother than metal hot ends and worth conducting some experiments to see how they perform with respect to bleeding.<br />
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Now that we have a little better understanding of what causes bleed and some things that might contribute to it, there is still no guarantee that you can completely eliminate it. But don't despair, you can greatly improve your print quality with some simple tuning - color bleed tuning - as described next.<br />
<h3>
Color Bleed Tuning</h3>
To perform this tuning you'll need to download two models:<br />
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QXAQC9Y9d96i_eyMO9DZEdKANOyWrgk8">BleedTest-bottom.stl</a><br />
<a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=1e1C-prqpoElc9tHK5vHAOK80iyvK8jQR">BleedTest-top.stl</a><br />
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And it is best if you follow along using CANVAS. If you prefer to use Chroma and your favorite slicer, you'll have to translate the slicing parameters to your slicer.<br />
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<h4>
Bleed Test Print</h4>
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<ol>
<li>Load both models into CANVAS and set the bottom part to the darker color and the upper part to the lighter color you want to test.</li>
<li>Slice in Vase mode, DO NOT use a transition tower (select No handling).</li>
<li>Slice with your standard layer height and extrusion width. Make note of extrusion width you'll need this later.</li>
<li>Print the model.</li>
</ol>
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Now, measure the the distance from the bottom of the part to an area where the upper lighter color is clean and not tinted. It is better to over measure a little than under measure. Make note of this height. (the example shows 12mm to very clean white).</div>
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Now some SIMPLE math:</div>
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<ol>
<li>subtract 5mm from your measured height - this is your “<b>clear height</b>” in the formula</li>
<li>calculate the <b>transition length</b> using your <b>extrusion width</b> and <b>clear height</b> using the following formula:</li>
</ol>
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<span style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: x-small;">65.314 * <b>extrusion width</b> mm * (<b>clear height</b> mm - 5mm) = <b>transition length</b></span></div>
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I found that this works great with a <b>20% transition</b> but you need to have a well calibrated extruder, P2 and ability to precisely start the filament when initiating a print. If you need to maintain a <b>30% or 40% transition</b>, you will likely need to increase the <b>transition length</b> by 10% or 20%, but this will get you in the ballpark. I am conducting further experiments and also working on studying the effect in various hot ends to test a hypothesis on where the bleeding derives.</div>
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<b>PLEASE NOTE:</b> this formula has been developed and tested with CANVAS with its integrated slicer. I am doing more research on Chroma and its supported slicers but some Facebook group members have had success with it on Chroma too.</div>
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The final step is to test your new transition settings by printing the model again, but this time enable the transition tower with your calculated <b>Transition length</b>.</div>
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<ol>
<li>Load the model into CANVAS and set the bottom part to the darker color and the upper part to the lighter color.</li>
<li>Slice in Vase mode, USE a transition tower (select <b>Transition tower</b>). Set your <b>Transition length</b> to the value calculated above and set <b>Transition target</b> to 20% (or 30% if you must).</li>
<li>Slice with your standard layer height and extrusion width.</li>
<li>Print the model. The top section should be clean with a crisp separation from the lower dark color.</li>
</ol>
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SublimeLayershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266175443539080935noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-34235225926795202812018-12-31T18:29:00.000-05:002019-01-01T10:43:30.252-05:00It’s aaaallliiivvvveeee!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<iframe width="320" height="266" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/NYPVYUv-bVE/0.jpg" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/NYPVYUv-bVE?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
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First movement. Now it’s time for first print. All hot end heaters, bed heaters and fans working. No magic smoke released. Sensorless homing on X and Y working perfectly. It’s coming together fast now.SublimeLayershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266175443539080935noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-76720608003530662702018-12-31T12:28:00.000-05:002018-12-31T12:30:59.189-05:00The E3D Tool Changer printer beta build<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P3ud6aJsEds/XCpMVMd-f0I/AAAAAAAAFSY/9BLtVvEUIr0ZF-luhxdKOPQr0w5cBamDwCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_0349.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P3ud6aJsEds/XCpMVMd-f0I/AAAAAAAAFSY/9BLtVvEUIr0ZF-luhxdKOPQr0w5cBamDwCLcBGAs/s400/IMG_0349.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
I have the good fortune to be one of the early betas (aka Guinea Pig) for <a href="https://e3d-online.com/blog/2018/08/20/e3d-tool-changer-and-motion-system-beta-30-incoming/" target="_blank">E3D's amazing Tool Changer</a>. At its heart, it is a CoreXY with an open front - which eliminates the one issue I have with Core XY format - you can't see it print clearly! This printer is not a "kit" in the sense that not all components are supplied. But the core (no pun intended) of the mechanical printer is included. The X-Y motion platform (Core XY) is fully assembled and ready to go as is the Z axis. The printer requires 7 stepper drivers so a Duet (Wifi or Ethernet) and a Duex2 or Duex5 board are required.<br />
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I was the second person to receive the overnight delivery from the UK (the first was in Europe). It came nicely packed in one large box. I got started putting it together immediately. The main printer frame went together in short order. The parts are beautifully machined and fit perfectly.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KUaiiKXTP2Q/XCpMTZDgHMI/AAAAAAAAFSI/9HqyboDimbcKdw44JilZGt1B1DzxVQKHACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_0355.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KUaiiKXTP2Q/XCpMTZDgHMI/AAAAAAAAFSI/9HqyboDimbcKdw44JilZGt1B1DzxVQKHACLcBGAs/s400/IMG_0355.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: start;">I chose to use four Bondtech BMG extruders (two normal, two mirrored are required) rather than the recommended E3D Titan. That's the only thing I deviated from the recommended build. What can I say. I love Bondtech extruders!</span></div>
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<span style="text-align: start;">I didn't take a lot of photos of the build as E3D's site linked above has very clear and detailed photos of the printer. I wanted to get this beast built so I could calibrate and start exploring its capabilities.</span></div>
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<span style="text-align: start;">In addition to the Tool Changer core, E3D will offer a wiring harness kit - which I highly recommend. Once installed it will look like this:</span></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-A6MsDi0ISuo/XCpMUAzU9JI/AAAAAAAAFSk/sD1sCbXsTzUJUalWED3oeaj2hAeH712fACEwYBhgL/s1600/image_from_ios.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-A6MsDi0ISuo/XCpMUAzU9JI/AAAAAAAAFSk/sD1sCbXsTzUJUalWED3oeaj2hAeH712fACEwYBhgL/s400/image_from_ios.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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The "most challenging" part of the build was printing the required parts. I used SnoLab's <a href="https://snolabs.com/carbon-fiber-1-75-pc/" target="_blank">Carbon Fiber PC+</a> as it is remarkably strong, high temperature resistant and looks fantastic. I did print a few parts in their Sublime Green PLA+. As I write this, I'm waiting for the last part to print that I overlooked. Of course it had to be literally the last step in the build - installing the IEC switch. I forgot to print the housing/bracket for it! It is 30 minutes from completion and then I'll be ready to commission the printer and get to work exploring its capabilities. Stay tuned!</div>
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SublimeLayershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266175443539080935noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-80402811663182680312018-12-30T11:31:00.001-05:002018-12-30T11:31:21.386-05:00Palette 2, SnoLabs Sublime Green PLA, E3D Scaffold filament and Gyro_the_Dodo_by_Virtox<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9b-426YmJUY/XCjxE1UQH9I/AAAAAAAAFR4/7cnTtevaZWEUlCotb8RRsoJ_8b5LzeN4QCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_0380-1200s.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="913" data-original-width="914" height="319" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9b-426YmJUY/XCjxE1UQH9I/AAAAAAAAFR4/7cnTtevaZWEUlCotb8RRsoJ_8b5LzeN4QCEwYBhgL/s320/IMG_0380-1200s.png" width="320" /></a></div>
This post has a long name to attract attention! I've been quiet for a few months - as I usually am during the last quarter of the year - because that is my crunch time for my <a href="http://www.eclecticangler.com/" target="_blank">EclecticAngler</a> business. But I still do a lot of 3D printing research and printing during this time.<br />
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Earlier in the year I was selected as one of three alpha and beta testers for the <a href="https://www.mosaicmfg.com/products/palette-2" target="_blank">Mosaic Palette 2</a> and have done a lot of testing, tuning and printing with it. After the beta period, Mosaic gave me a production Palette 2 to enjoy. And enjoy I have! This is my third Palette - I started with the original Palette, then the Palette+. This new P2 is a COMPLETELY redesigned mechanism with an integrated scroll wheel and filament buffer and the amazing Splice Core - the heart of the splicing mechanism. And Mosaic has created a new Cloud service called CANVAS that integrates with their IoT (internet of things) device called Hub. CANVAS includes a slicer - notably, my favorite <a href="http://www.kisslicer.com/" target="_blank">KISSlicer</a> - and completely revolutionizes the Palette workflow.<br />
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I'll blog more about the Palette 2, CANVAS and Hub and how to achieve remarkable multi-material and multi-color results from them in the coming months. For now, let's just say I am literally blown away with what the Mosaic team accomplished. I'm well over 7000 splices with myP2 now without a single splice failure. That deserves repeating - <i>over 7000 successful splices without a single failure!</i><br />
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Next up, my friends over at <a href="https://snolabs.com/" target="_blank">SnoLabs</a> have been developing and bringing some remarkable filaments to the 3D printing community. Although they've just started, SnoLabs has made great progress bringing unique, beautiful, functional - and equally as important - affordable, high quality filaments to market. In addition to my now-favorite go-to filament for structural parts, <a href="https://snolabs.com/carbon-fiber-1-75-pc/" target="_blank">Carbon Fiber - Polycarbonate+</a> - and including the amazing <a href="https://snolabs.com/sublime-green-1-75-pla/" target="_blank">Sublime Green PLA+</a>. Disclaimer - I do get a small royalty for each spool of Sublime Green to support my work and I greatly appreciate it. That said, what can I say, it is Sublime Green - my favorite color. Thank you SnoLabs!<br />
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I wanted to find a difficult project to show off the Palette 2 with its ability to splice different materials and Sublime Green PLA+. After a little googling, I came across a model I've known about for some time but never had the tools to attempt - <a href="https://www.youmagine.com/designs/gyro-the-dodo-ultimaker-special" target="_blank">Gyro_the_Dodo_by_Virtox</a>. This model is a set of five nested dodecahedrons that independently rotate - all printed as a single print. Complex and persnickety, this model requires a well tuned extruder and printer and a soluble support structure. I choose E3D's <a href="https://e3d-online.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=scaffold+filament+3d+printing+spoolworks" target="_blank">Scaffold</a> filament for the support.<br />
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A few quick tests to tune the splices on the Palette 2 ("cover off, 2-0-2") and I was ready to proceed. I sliced the model in CANVAS using my basic profile of 3 perimeters, 0.2mm layer height, 0.4mm extrusion width and .6mm top and bottom shells - other parameters are printer-specific. CANVAS automatically talks to your Hub and transfers the necessary g-code and palette-specific files to it. The Hub is Octoprint under the covers with special CANVAS and Palette plug-ins. Once the file has transferred, you print it from Octoprint exactly like you would print any g-code - except that Palette 2 will walk you through initializing and starting the print (more on this in a future video).<br />
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In the case of this Gyro_the_Dodo, Palette reports 473 splices required. My Palette 2 and printer are well-tuned and I've been playing the "how low can you go" on the transition tower size. This print was created with a remarkable 100mm transition length and 20% transition (I wish CANVAS would let me go below 20%, I think I could easily handle 15%!).<br />
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Without further adieu, here is the print in process, completed, physical support removed and the rest disked away by soaking in water...<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4kbhZ5AOhJc/XCjhwJLXASI/AAAAAAAAFRc/Kzl7r8eGxp4GcAsa3fuu4396QuYYw7wQACEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_0366-1200s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1199" data-original-width="1200" height="398" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4kbhZ5AOhJc/XCjhwJLXASI/AAAAAAAAFRc/Kzl7r8eGxp4GcAsa3fuu4396QuYYw7wQACEwYBhgL/s400/IMG_0366-1200s.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">About 60 splices into the print. The contrast go the Sublime Green PLA+<br />and Scaffold makes it easy to see what's going on.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hKDHCWAqgnE/XCjhwACRCvI/AAAAAAAAFRo/4a1ps-l9bxcMuyIs0gn2mgBzBZK1OTIPQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_0367-1200s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hKDHCWAqgnE/XCjhwACRCvI/AAAAAAAAFRo/4a1ps-l9bxcMuyIs0gn2mgBzBZK1OTIPQCEwYBhgL/s400/IMG_0367-1200s.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">About 175 splices in. Things are looking interesting at this point!</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mYlbC4Nqlzk/XCjhwxpB-4I/AAAAAAAAFRk/vjJ_x0i4JnoUlZyX9ZWON_5QrkcLLGVtQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_0369-1200s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mYlbC4Nqlzk/XCjhwxpB-4I/AAAAAAAAFRk/vjJ_x0i4JnoUlZyX9ZWON_5QrkcLLGVtQCEwYBhgL/s400/IMG_0369-1200s.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">300 splices in, it's coming together - literally!</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_bl586I8TMU/XCjhxJft9VI/AAAAAAAAFRo/NgPjSw4fHr4u4EQlKUloT8pW5Z3AfH2eQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_0372-1200s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_bl586I8TMU/XCjhxJft9VI/AAAAAAAAFRo/NgPjSw4fHr4u4EQlKUloT8pW5Z3AfH2eQCEwYBhgL/s400/IMG_0372-1200s.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Here is the complete print - 473 splices, 34 hours and 13 minutes, 41.79 meters<br />of Sublime Green PLA+ and 45.48 of sacrificial Scaffold.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fy3fBseAFoc/XCjhxcCVXhI/AAAAAAAAFRo/ZTJqoPE0rXwvoBARsyb4iyB_hoz5y4UvwCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_0375-1200s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fy3fBseAFoc/XCjhxcCVXhI/AAAAAAAAFRo/ZTJqoPE0rXwvoBARsyb4iyB_hoz5y4UvwCEwYBhgL/s400/IMG_0375-1200s.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Here I've stripped away as much of the Scaffold as possible without risking damaging the part. From here, I soaked the part in one gallon of water for 30 minutes to soften up the Scaffold. I then ran the part under a stream of room temperature water - which washed away most of the surface support and allowed the nested dodecahedrons to pivot.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CHicWtn7MFs/XCjxEwCbE_I/AAAAAAAAFR0/FZgg8JF9LxYeZZFiwfuC4XEPmO0GaQlBACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_0381-1200s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CHicWtn7MFs/XCjxEwCbE_I/AAAAAAAAFR0/FZgg8JF9LxYeZZFiwfuC4XEPmO0GaQlBACLcBGAs/s400/IMG_0381-1200s.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">And here is the final product after soaking overnight, rinsing and drying.<br />I also printed a stand in SnoLabs CF PLA (black) to display it on.</span></td></tr>
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<br />SublimeLayershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266175443539080935noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-12847365325469112292018-08-01T09:59:00.004-04:002018-08-01T09:59:56.281-04:00A Strategy for Obtaining Great PrintsI've published this Strategy on several forums over the past 4 years. It has been greatly expanded (content not number of strategies!) for my upcoming book but I wanted to share this here on my blog for my followers. Note that some of the information in this list is a bit dated, the updated version in my book is completely up to date and greatly expanded.<br />
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<span style="color: #6aa84f;">A Strategy for Obtaining Great 3D Prints</span></h3>
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Like all new endeavors, there IS a learning curve with 3D printing. This is still the pioneering era for desktop printing and we are very fortunate to have such a great community here as well as other resources on the web. But the challenge with all the information out there is finding it when YOU need it and deciphering the many different opinions and practices - some of which are good and some of which are, well, let's just say "poppycock".</div>
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Another part of the challenge is there are many different means to the same end, but I assert that those who have developed a workable (AND reproducible) technique most likely took a disciplined approach rather than the shotgun approach of trying one thing after another. So, I thought it would be helpful to describe a method that you can use to 1) develop a reproducible approach to successfully printing the things you want and 2) improving the quality of your prints to meet your (realistic) expectations. Don't hesitate to join in or ask questions. As required, I'll consolidate any interesting information from follow-on posts into this initial post to help make everything easy to find.</div>
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Ready to go? Before we do, here is a little suggestion.</div>
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<i><span style="color: #6aa84f;">TIP:</span></i> When you are starting a new print session, give the printer a little warm up exercise! Much like an athlete needs to warm up before a game, so does your printer! Don't just turn the printer on and start to print, turn it on and let the hot end get up to equilibrium, let the heated bed get up to temperature. I even like to print a quick part to make sure everything is up to temp, in equilibrium and working properly. It's quick and easy to do and can help eliminate a lot of problems.</div>
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<b><span style="color: #6aa84f;">#1 Get Experience.</span></b> Start with the printer. This is more difficult than it seems because without experience, it is hard to know if you have a mechanical or electrical issue, slicing issue or if something else is going on. So, to that end, keep things simple until you have some experience. By "simple" I mean, don't print the Eiffel Tower model for your first print, print a simple, reproducible and small item many, Many, MANY times until you nail it. For me, I used the calibration cube. In retrospect, I should have picked something much simpler (see strategy #2). </div>
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<b><span style="color: #6aa84f;">#2 Start Simple.</span></b> We have a tendency to want to jump ahead to more complicated prints, faster printing, and bigger prints as quickly as possible. But a few hours spent working on a simple object or two will pay dividends. There are many aspects to successful 3D printing, everything from the printer (which in itself has a mechanical system, electronics system, hot end, extruder, heated bed, firmware), to the slicer (and all of the parameters available to control the slicing), to the filament itself, to the actual item being printed. With so many variables (100s, maybe 1000s of them) it is really important to pin down as many of them as you can. One very easy place to do this is with the model itself. Develop your experience printing the same model over and over until you nail it. Even with a simple model, you can (and should) approach printing it with a methodical approach from the ground up. That's the next strategy.</div>
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<b><span style="color: #6aa84f;">#3 Practice in Measures.</span></b> I play guitar and was basically self taught. When I found new music to learn, I did what many untrained folks do and practiced the piece over and over again from beginning to end. If I made a mistake, I started over. Then, I took lessons from a trained musician. My very first lesson was worth every penny! My instructor watched me learn a piece and then said "you should Practice in Measures". What he meant by this was to learn the first measure (music is divided into small blocks of notes called measures which are small and relatively simple). Practice it until it is perfect. Then, practice the second measure until it's perfect. Next, combine the first and second measures until that is perfect. Continue in this way until you've learned all the measures and combinations of them. In complex pieces, there will be a few measures or sequences of measures where you need to put in a lot more practice.</div>
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The advantage of this approach, my instructor said, is that you are not wasting lots of time playing measures you already know. The practice of playing from the start until you reach a difficult spot and make a mistake is that you play, say, 30 seconds (or more) of music you already know to hit a 1 second spot you need to practice. So in a 30 minute practice session you are really only practicing what you need to practice for 1 minute! This completely changed my approach to practicing everything from guitar to 3D printing to machining to learning CAD, to ...</div>
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How does this apply to 3D printing? Easily! Start with a simple object to print and practice nailing the first layer. Too often folks will print a poor first layer and allow the print to continue. Why print on a bad foundation? You might be able to salvage the part but more times than not, it will peel from the bed or warp badly. Instead, nail that first layer. Once you have that perfected, move on to print the rest of the object. Once you have the entire object printed successfully, change slicing parameters to print faster, or at higher resolution and start over (nail the first layer, ...). Practice in measures.</div>
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I can't say enough about getting that first layer right, the subject of the next strategy.</div>
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<b><span style="color: #6aa84f;">#4 Nail the First Layer.</span></b> I don't believe folks spend enough time learning to print a perfect first layer reliably. If there are defects in the first layer, they will invariably come back later to bite you later - the part separating form the build plate, warping, or a defect in the part. Print a good (or great) first layer is probably one of the most frustrating experiences for most, it is also the most critical. Here's where strategy #3 comes to play, don't continue a print on an inferior first layer! Abort the print and restart that first layer again and again until you nail it. Why waste time on a part that will most likely fail or not be useful? Each time you print a first layer, measure it! If you configure your slicer to print a 0.20mm first layer, then it should be pretty darn close to 0.20mm. If it isn't, you've identified a variable that you can easily fix and nail down (Z height). 0.20mm is not a lot and unless you have highly calibrated eyes, you can't tell the difference between 0.20 and 0.15mm, but your printer sure can. At 0.15mm the first layer is going to squish onto the print surface. It may even seem like you are getting a great first layer and great sticking (which you are) but later, you'll discover the part is nearly impossible to remove or your extruder will start making that all too familiar TICK, TICK, TICK sound from missing steps. A perfect first layer will go down smooth and consistently time after time.</div>
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<i><span style="color: #6aa84f;">TIP:</span></i> polish the tip of your nozzle! Chared filament and scratches on the very tip of the nozzle are dragged over the layer as it moves around. Best case, these leave a visible mark on the print; worse case, they rip the first (or higher) layer off the build plate. </div>
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<b><span style="color: #6aa84f;">#5 Slow Down.</span></b> Back to my guitar lesson example... The other thing my instructor taught me in that first lesson was to practice slowly (using a metronome) until I nailed the measure(s) at a slow tempo. Then, gradually and consistently, increase the speed. The same applies to 3D printing, print slowly at first. This gives you time to observe what's going on (strategy #6) and just simplifies everything. I like to start new folks at 20 to 25mm/s print speeds. What's the hurry? If you print 10 aborted prints at 50mm/s what have you gained (or lost)? Printing slow helps all parts of the printer, from the mechanics to the extruder to the plastic filament coming out the nozzle, stay in balance or equilibrium. Fast movements can highlight mechanical issues, extrusion issues, etc. But when you are first starting out, you don't know how to identify and isolate these issues. In fact, even with all of my experience, if something starts to go wrong, I slow down. That removes a lot of variables and gives me a chance to see what's happening. I've identified everything from loose pulleys, to a stretch belt, to a worn joint on a delta printer arm! And, I've helped a lot of folks identify other issues simply by slowing down.</div>
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<b><span style="color: #6aa84f;">#6 Watch What's Happening.</span></b> Especially in the early stages of learning, watch all aspects of the printer. Combined with strategy #5 you'll start to develop an appreciation for how the slicer does its magic, how the printer does its magic, and it is just simply fun to watch! I highly recommend putting a flag of some type on your extruder motor shaft so you can actually watch retracts and advances and watch the steady push of the filament. A piece of masking tape stuck to the shaft is fine or print one of the pointer models. Watch that first layer print, that's how you'll see if there is a problem and maybe even figure out why. For example, I noticed that the first layer wasn't sticking in the same spot on my build plate. Turns out that I had some potato chip grease there (don't ask)! A little wipe with isopropyl alcohol and I was back in business. Watch what happens when the layer fan comes on. Is it coming on too early and causing the part to peal from the print surface? Pay attention to the details of what's going on and then...</div>
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<b><span style="color: #6aa84f;">#7 Keep Notes.</span></b> I can't stress how important it is to keep notes. I have a word processor file I add notes to as I go. In particular, I keep a section on the filaments I use and the detailed printing parameters for them (strategy #9). Perhaps I'm becoming forgetful in my advanced age but I don't like solving the same problem over and over again. If I keep a note about a problem and my solution, I can usually find it again pretty quickly. Once comment on notes, don't be afraid to purge! After a few years of doing this, my file got quite big. Recently I archived all of my H1 and H1-1 notes. I don't refer to them any longer so why keep them in my working notes?</div>
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<b><span style="color: #6aa84f;">#8 Be Consistent.</span></b> A CEO friend I worked with many years ago was fond of saying "Consistency is the hobgoblin of small minds!". I understood what he was trying to say but it has to be taken into context. When you are first learning any new activity, it is critical to be consistent. If too many things are changing at once, you have no idea what contributed to a good or bad result. Don't change too many things at once. In fact, if you can isolate and change just ONE thing, you will have a much better chance of success and understanding. This isn't always possible so lock down as many things as you can. If after a run of successful printing you run into a problem, go back to a known good state (see #7 - you did keep notes on what this state was didn't you?) and start there. Many times we try to change too many things in our frustration and that almost always makes things worse. Step back and think about how to isolate the problem areas with as few changes as possible.</div>
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<b><span style="color: #6aa84f;">#9 Know Your Filament.</span></b> This strategy is a little lower level than the previous eight but important and often overlooked. I see a lot of folks just assume that they should print filament X at temperature Z - for instance, print PLA at 200°C. This might get you in the ball park but if you really want to get consistent and GREAT results, profile your filament. It's easy and if you write it down (see #7) you'll never second guess how best to print that filament again. It's important to realize that higher temperatures are not always better, they can actually lead to issues - parts that are just a little too large, parts that stick to the bed too well and can't be removed, blobs on the print, stringing, and a host of other problems. In general, I like to print at the lowest temperature possible for PLA and ABS. Then, as I ramp up print speed, I also need to ramp up the hot end temp a little since the filament is not resident in the hot zone for as much time. I suspect little details like this cause people more problems than they might anticipate.</div>
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Here's how I profile a new filament:</div>
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<li>Start with a reasonable target temperature - 200°C for PLA and 225°C for ABS (one quick note, it is ideal to have a calibrated hot end, so when I say 200°C I mean 200°C. One easy way to do this is to make a little table with the hot end set temperature (what you see on the temp display) and the measured temperature (with a thermocouple). Do this in 5°C increments from 160° to 240° C (or so). Keep this chart in your notes (#7) and you will always know what the actual temperature is.)</li>
<li>Now, use the manual controls of your host to extrude 50mm at 50mm/s and watch and listen.</li>
<li>If the filament extrudes nicely, reduce the temperature by 5°C and wait for the temperature to stabilize.</li>
<li>Test again by extruding 50mm at 50mm/s</li>
<li>Repeat until you reach a temperature where the filament does not extrude well. At 5°C to that temperature and note this as the "low extrusion temperature" for that filament. Use this low temperature whenever you are printing slowly (20-30mm/s). You might find some filament need to be bumped up a bit more than 5° so don't hesitate to experiment and find that lowest reliable extrusion temperature.</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div>
If you want to get really serious about profiling your filaments, do the melt-flow test at higher extrusion rates - 60 mm/s, then 70mm/s, etc.</div>
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<div>
Don't forget to measure the diameter of your filament too! Not all filaments are created equally. Measure in several locations to get a sense of variability. Most of the slicers let you enter filament diameter and they will calculate a reasonable flow for you.</div>
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<div>
Finally, once you've completed the filament profile, print the Simple Single Layer Test object in the Layer Tuning section at the end of this post. </div>
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<div>
<b><span style="color: #6aa84f;">#10 Know Your Bedfellows.</span></b> Probably one of the greatest mysteries in 3D printing is "the bed". Metaphorically, this is where the rubber (filament) meets the road (bed) and getting "it" right is absolutely critical to successful fused filament 3D printing. All sorts of folklore on bed materials, coatings, coverings, concoctions, and juju exists here and elsewhere on the internet. It is also one of the areas that there is no one right way to do it. If you have discovered a special incantation and bed preparation that works, by all means stick with it! But, for those of you struggling, here are some strategies you can use to make improvements. One comment before I begin...</div>
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<div>
I am VERY persnickety about the aesthetics of my 3D prints. My 3D printed fly fishing reel is seen from all sides and so it is important that the first layer is flawless and visually appealing. The photo below is the bottom surface (first layer) in both the outer teal ring and the inner white spool plate (you can see more of my work here). A perfect first layer finish is not required for all objects - consider the base of a Yoda or vase - but if you practice getting a great first layer on these non-critical pieces you'll be prepared when you need a visually perfect first layer on another project.</div>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Va1Hn3KDCRk/W2G7iPeNxgI/AAAAAAAAFB4/JWt4FpUH3jQiiit-UKD7J_iI7l6fURFvwCLcBGAs/s1600/70.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="120" data-original-width="120" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Va1Hn3KDCRk/W2G7iPeNxgI/AAAAAAAAFB4/JWt4FpUH3jQiiit-UKD7J_iI7l6fURFvwCLcBGAs/s1600/70.jpg" /></a></div>
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<div>
A number of factors affect adherence of the first printed layer to the bed. These include:</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>surface material</li>
<li>surface texture</li>
<li>surface treatment/coating</li>
<li>bed temperature and uniformity of temperature</li>
<li>air temperature</li>
<li>chemical bonding or cohesion</li>
<li>print speed (see #5)</li>
<li>filament temperature (see #9)</li>
<li>first layer height (see #4)</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div>
cleanliness (of bed and filament)</div>
<div>
This isn't an exhaustive list but it does include the big hitters and, as you can see, there are a few of them so it is very important to take a methodical (#2 and #8) and documented (#7) approach when solving bed-related problems. This is also a place where careful observation (#6) can play an important part.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
I'm not going to go through all of these in detail now but did want to comment about the last one - cleanliness. Whatever you do, make sure everything near and on your printer is clean and grease free. Silicone greases and lubricants are especially problematic since they are invisible and very difficult to remove. Keep them away from your machine.</div>
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<div>
Your fingers are a prime source of contaminants. Every time you touch the filament or bed, you risk leaving a greasy print (see my observation in #6) and these can (and will) cause issues. I try not to handle filament with my bare fingers, I use cotton gloves. If you use a plastic or rubber glove, make sure it isn't coated or powdered - we're trying to eliminate sources of contamination, not introduce them. On the occasions that I do handle filament with my bare hands I wash and dry them thoroughly first. This is one area that I think affects a lot of user's and is completely overlooked. How many times have you loaded filament right after eating chips? It introduces a big variable that can be difficult to track down, so develop good habits and eliminate contamination as a variable.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Your fingers can also leave contaminants on the bed when you remove a part or brush off stray filament strands. Don't touch the bed surface if at all possible. If you do, clean/degrease it with an appropriate cleaner. For uncoated surfaces like borosilicate glass, PEI, the various 3d party surfaces (PrintInZ and BuildTak), and films (window tint, Kapton) you can use isopropyl alcohol. I like to use the little packages of wipes as they are convenient and safe. You can also do a quick wipe of your fingers before tossing it in the trash. It is more difficult to deal with coatings like PVA glue, glue stick, and hairspray since these can't be cleaned. If you suspect a contaminated coating, your only recourse is to remove and reapply it. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Finally, don't overlook filament storage, keep it clean too. I store mine in large zip lock bags to keep off dust. You can put packets of desiccant to help remove moisture in the bag too.</div>
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<b><span style="color: #6aa84f;">#11 Learn to Diagnose. </span></b></div>
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<div>
<i>Patient:</i> "Dr. it hurts when I move my arm like this."</div>
<div>
<i>Doctor:</i> "Then don't move your arm like that!"</div>
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<div>
The first point of this joke is, many people do the same thing over and over again without making any changes or stopping to think about what to change (see #8: remember, change one thing at a time) - as if just repeating the same print with the same parameters will magically solve the problem. It won't (see my footnote below).</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The second point of the joke is that the doctor didn't attempt to actually determine why the patient's arm hurt, he just had him avoid the problem. I see that a lot too. Usually it takes the form of "I tried printing it with my red PLA and it failed but everything was fine with my blue PLA". There are many other variations on this (changing slicers for example).</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Learn how to diagnose problems. This requires careful observation (#6). Once you've identified where the problem occurs (let's say getting the first layer to stick) then PRACTICE that piece (see #3) until you sort it out. No need to run through the entire process over and over. Isolate the problem, formulate a hypothesis on what you think might be happening and design a test to prove or disprove your hypothesis. If you see a problem and can't formulate a hypothesis THEN seek help! Or, pre-test your hypothesis here to get some experienced feedback. But, whatever you do, try to work through the diagnostic process yourself first, that's how you learn.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Footnote: Many years ago (20) my company had an annual laboratory safety week (I worked in a corporate R&D lab with lots of nasty stuff). One of the annual favorites was a gentleman from OSHA who talked about electrical safety. He started his presentation with a black and white video from the 1940s (I think) of a speaker walking up to a microphone on stage. The presentation was being filmed. The speaker reached up and grabbed the mic and was immediately thrown back and fell to the stage unconscious. Members of the audience rushed up to help him. This was all on video. As 4 or 5 people worked to help the victim, you see a gentleman casually walk up to the mic, reach out his hand and touch the mic. He was immediately thrown back and collapsed on the stage next to victim #1. Literally 30 seconds later a THIRD audience member walked up to the mic (now there are 2 victims on the stage and a hoard of people working to revive them) and carefully reached out his finger (looked like the scene from ET) and very, very gently touched the mic with just the tip of his finger. He was immediately thrown to the stage as the third victim. All of this was caught on video. No one died (we were told). Neither of the second two victims stopped to think about the problem, consequences or solutions.</div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div>
<b><span style="color: #6aa84f;">#12 Be a Fanboy.</span></b> I am probably going to lose some fans for this post about cooling fans!</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Don't think of a part cooling fan as an object, instead, think about "air flow". If you need cooling on a PLA (or other material) part, then you need to understand air flow. Not all cooling fans are created equally. Consider this, some folks use a 40mm, some a 25mm, some (like me) a 25mm squirrel cage fan. Some are mounted to blow the full fan width stream at the nozzle area, some have a duct or some (like mine) have a very focused soda straw duct). So comments like "run your fan at 1/2 speed" are not specific enough to be useful information. Instead, you need to understand how your particular fan, it's arrangement, your material, etc, all relate to the air flow.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Using the previous strategies, try to minimize or eliminate the need for any sort of air cooling. Slowing a print down (#5) is one great way to do this. It also gives you a chance to see (#6) where any problem areas on a print might be. You can use this information to focus the right amount of air flow on the problematic areas. The tendency for many is to use as much air as possible. It is much better, more consistent, and more reliable to use as little air flow as necessary. This puts less thermal stress on the printed part.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
When you do determine you have a problem that only a fan can solve, start conservatively. I also recommend using a duct of some sort to focus the air flow where you need it. Ideally, the fan would have the ability to follow the print nozzle and direct a small stream of air to the filament right after it is laid down. That is a difficult problem to solve, so most of us direct the air to area around and under the nozzle. But, by directing the air (duct) you can reduce the air flow significantly since it is now focused where you need it.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
I suggest doing your own experiments and observations but start conservatively. I don't use a fan during the entire part. If you find you need to turn the fan on at full blast from no air flow, do it in stages so the hot end can equilibrate properly. You can do this manually, some slicers can support it, or it is easy enough to learn the simple "fan mcodes" to manually insert them where you need them in the gcode file (this is what I do for tricky parts). </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
M107 is fan off</div>
<div>
M106 S50 turns the fan on at 50% - the S parameter is the speed from 0 to 100</div>
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<br /></div>
<div>
Using a focused air flow, lower air flow and the step up technique I just described, you won't see a significant drop in hot end temperature. PLA has an interesting property that if you change the extrusion temp at the hot end, it has a visible effect on surface sheen of the part from matte to gloss as you raise the temperature. RichRap has written an excellent post about how he uses this phenomenon when printing decorative vases. Although he was varying the hotend temperature, a similar effect can occur with improper air cooling.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
I'm also an advocate of using off-platform cooling. By this I mean strategically placed (ducted) fans that direct air to problematic areas of a print. These can be mounted to your vertical columns or simply sat on the bed if it is not too hot. With ducting, you can reduce the air flow considerably and keep the cooling right on a "hot spot". This technique does require manual adjustment, repositioning, etc. But, it you are trying to print a really tricky part, it might be the only way to do it. Frankly, the part cooling capabilities of desktop 3D printers is extremely primitive at this point. It's fine for the majority of objects you might print but as we push the envelope on what's possible, part cooling is one area that needs some more work to automate it.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Consider this, the way I maintain very tight tolerances on the rotating spindle and hub assemblies on my fly fishing reels is to use a low beam of air cooling on the spindle as it's printed. This "locks" the filament in place in a very predictable way. Once I printed a few parts and measured them to make sure there was little variation, I incorporated that into the design to get exactly the tolerance these parts required.</div>
</div>
<div>
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SublimeLayershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266175443539080935noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-82824324315806861412018-04-21T10:41:00.000-04:002018-04-21T10:41:14.489-04:00Another Satisfying First Layer<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IbRhcLOg69g/WttMYuI1DKI/AAAAAAAAEoY/zetgiYOq_GollURsn4sjxZ1WnIGT3HizwCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_9572.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IbRhcLOg69g/WttMYuI1DKI/AAAAAAAAEoY/zetgiYOq_GollURsn4sjxZ1WnIGT3HizwCLcBGAs/s320/IMG_9572.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
This is the first layer for all nine parts for <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2865030_" target="_blank">gzumwalt's air engine</a> using four different slicing styles and supports with KISS' Lock Paths feature. Printed in purple <a href="http://www.snolabs.com/" target="_blank">SnoLabs</a> PLA on an Ultibots stock D300 printer. This is this printer's last hurrah before being upgraded to carbon fiber ball cup arms, a direct drive Bondtech BMG extruder and V6 hot end and my Tusk part cooling shroud.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IbRhcLOg69g/WttMYuI1DKI/AAAAAAAAEog/MdnJhtpZk98ChmU8ud292Mo2nrMjp62VQCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_9572.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IbRhcLOg69g/WttMYuI1DKI/AAAAAAAAEog/MdnJhtpZk98ChmU8ud292Mo2nrMjp62VQCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_9572.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
This is the model for my printing Contest #2 now underway.SublimeLayershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266175443539080935noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-70959779443355528662018-04-19T17:38:00.001-04:002018-04-19T20:53:45.945-04:003D Printing Contest #2<div style="caret-color: rgb(29, 33, 41); color: #1d2129; margin-bottom: 6px;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/65/43/c4/6b/c5/48c62995bfe40001468f0d48af153393_preview_featured.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="472" data-original-width="628" height="300" src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/65/43/c4/6b/c5/48c62995bfe40001468f0d48af153393_preview_featured.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">3D Print Contest #2 is open to all supporters and subscribers! If you are not a subscriber yet, please subscribe to my blog (here) and <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6scgqmuRHaHy_JZClUilFA" target="_blank">YouTube</a> channels and you will be good to enter. Prizes for first and second place (see Prizes below).</span></div>
<h4 style="caret-color: rgb(29, 33, 41); color: #1d2129;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">THE MODEL</span></h4>
<span style="caret-color: rgb(29, 33, 41); color: #1d2129; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">This very interesting air engine was just published by </span><span style="color: #1d2129; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(29, 33, 41);">gzumwalt </span></span><span style="caret-color: rgb(29, 33, 41); color: #1d2129; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">on Thingiverse:</span><span style="caret-color: rgb(29, 33, 41); color: #1d2129; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> </span><a data-ft="{"tn":"-U"}" data-lynx-mode="origin" href="https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.thingiverse.com%2Fthing%3A2865030&h=ATM04dlh9dP7mobNHJUT0ADZIlz7rpjYKUwAtQAQweTjj9luFmC4n9pJ7AoFpgD0KMeL_rcrs6pe-byJ4KNzpSPjQpnxxUNKErdta6RXyx5u6pmAvHzJ4SYdEoVDBDBmKtQ_P73NDYM" rel="nofollow" style="caret-color: rgb(29, 33, 41); color: #365899; cursor: pointer; font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2865030</a><span style="caret-color: rgb(29, 33, 41); color: #1d2129; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> </span><span style="caret-color: rgb(29, 33, 41); color: #1d2129; font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">and is perfect as a challenging print that will let you exercise your printing chops!</span><br />
<h4>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">SCORING</span></h4>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">
The idea is to print it (including the propeller) and power it with a balloon! Entries will be judged on:<br />
</span><br />
<ol><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">
<li>1 point for the total crowd scored score (see below) for aesthetics of the printed model - colors, print quality, etc </li>
<li>20 points for "does it work powered with a balloon?"</li>
<li>10 points for each completed 30 seconds of run time on a single inflated balloon - no limit on the size of the balloon and a video must be submitted</li>
</span></ol>
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</span>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">From my research and calculations, a standard inflated balloon has about 800 mm of mercury pressure inside it. This is ~15 PSI. This model can be made to work on as little as 5 PSI so we should be able to make them work off balloon pressure.</span></div>
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<h4>
PRIZES</h4>
<a href="http://snolabs.com/">SnoLabs.com</a> has graceously donated the prizes for this Print Contest:<br />
<div style="caret-color: rgb(29, 33, 41); color: #1d2129; margin-bottom: 6px; margin-top: 6px;">
First place can choose either 1 roll of carbon fiber, or 2 rolls of other filament. </div>
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Second place can choose 1 roll of any non-carbon fiber filament</div>
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<h4>
<span style="color: #1d2129;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(29, 33, 41);">RULES AND REGULATIONS</span></span></h4>
</div>
<ol>
<li style="caret-color: rgb(29, 33, 41); color: #1d2129;">Contest ends on Friday May 18 at 12 midnight EST, Participant scoring for category 1 must be complete by midnight on Wednesday May 23. Winner announced on Friday, May 25th</li>
<li style="caret-color: rgb(29, 33, 41); color: #1d2129;">One entry per person</li>
<li style="caret-color: rgb(29, 33, 41); color: #1d2129;">Submissions must include 1 to 3 clear photos and either the video or link to the video showing the full runtime duration</li>
<li style="caret-color: rgb(29, 33, 41); color: #1d2129;">Contest is open to all Patreon supporters who submit their entry in the contest_submissions Slack channel</li>
<li><span style="color: #1d2129;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(29, 33, 41);">Contest is open to anyone who </span></span><span style="color: #1d2129;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(29, 33, 41);">subscribes</span></span><span style="color: #1d2129;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(29, 33, 41);"> to both my Blog AND YouTube Channel who submit their entry via email to me at michael.hackney@sublimelayers.com and include your subscriber IDs on both the blog and YouTube, clear photos of your print (Limit to 3) and either the video or link to the video of the full duration run</span></span></li>
<li style="caret-color: rgb(29, 33, 41); color: #1d2129;">All entries must also participate in the scoring for category 1 (aesthetics). A photo of each entry will be posted on my blog with an identification number. Scorers pick the 3 prints they like best and email or message me with their choices ranked 1, 2 and 3. The total for each submission will be the number of points for Scoring category 1.</li>
</ol>
<div style="caret-color: rgb(29, 33, 41); color: #1d2129; margin-bottom: 6px; margin-top: 6px;">
If you haven't subscribed to my blog and YouTube channel yet, please do so here:</div>
<div style="caret-color: rgb(29, 33, 41); color: #1d2129; margin-bottom: 6px; margin-top: 6px;">
blog: <a data-ft="{"tn":"-U"}" data-lynx-mode="origin" href="https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sublimelayers.com%2F&h=ATN9ua3ksx-2f3Q7jnf02mKKLdnC-LF56zYWsz9dW8u2Gr4W4kNgeRtmrinouwokyWq9FOmSoTdMWZoCFX0TX_VK1DXlFv0a39ql0S1OeLDM2QNPZk4aY9-BGRsc_nwlfhQTd6cDYgQ" rel="nofollow" style="color: #365899; cursor: pointer; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">http://www.sublimelayers.com</a><br />
YouTube: <a data-ft="{"tn":"-U"}" data-lynx-mode="origin" data-lynx-uri="https://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fchannel%2FUC6scgqmuRHaHy_JZClUilFA&h=ATNwaj0P5szFqcdRrQT-bfmas8hnyak3ZKwFoP68dbBciw6gF0RH0-makdeZY0ZDH4eFaA3twoda4taoEU_bchdB47mPbvqIOuyDjrOnj534U5fWZ2dDYuQ8QvI_Ub6wlrofkbIDqOU" href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6scgqmuRHaHy_JZClUilFA" rel="nofollow" style="color: #365899; cursor: pointer; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6scgqmuRHaHy_JZClUilFA</a></div>
<div style="caret-color: rgb(29, 33, 41); color: #1d2129; margin-bottom: 6px; margin-top: 6px;">
Let the contest begin!</div>
</span></div>
SublimeLayershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266175443539080935noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-46183720904720348112018-04-12T11:03:00.000-04:002018-04-12T11:03:15.353-04:00Tip: QuickPrint model<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Here's a simple model that prints quickly and can be used to check and calibrate a number for factors. </div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WAtuUGNYhG0/Ws9y0_sOAMI/AAAAAAAAEmc/Jy2WpxAnXUY-4WZHNJ0G2zrvyo3LEPV9QCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-04-12%2Bat%2B10.52.50%2BAM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="767" data-original-width="1008" height="243" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WAtuUGNYhG0/Ws9y0_sOAMI/AAAAAAAAEmc/Jy2WpxAnXUY-4WZHNJ0G2zrvyo3LEPV9QCLcBGAs/s320/Screen%2BShot%2B2018-04-12%2Bat%2B10.52.50%2BAM.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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QuickPrint test part - 20mm x 20mm x 5mm tall so it prints quickly to check:</div>
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<ul>
<li>X-Y scaling - particularly for delta printers to verify delta arm length</li>
<li>Z scaling - although only 5mm tall, you can use it for a quick Z calibration test</li>
<li>perimeter print quality - with two radiuses and two sharp corners you can check a variety of perimeter issues as well as print speed, acceleration and "jerk"</li>
<li>first layer quality - simply stop the print after the first layer is complete, cool and peal to measure first layer thickness. This measurement should equal your first layer height set in your slicer</li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;">top layer quality - slice with 3 top shell layers to check the quality of the printed part</span></li>
</ul>
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<div style="font-family: inherit; margin-bottom: 6px;">
Slicing recommendations: </div>
<div style="font-family: inherit; margin-bottom: 6px;">
</div>
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;">2 perimeters</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;">2-3 shells top and bottom</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;">25% infill is good for a quick test print</span></li>
</ul>
</div>
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Get it here: <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1v96iCx14cZMSvjPlF1XnUbaDzlq82Qh7/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">QuickPrint</a></div>
<br />
<div>
See <a href="http://www.sublimelayers.com/2018/03/musing-how-to-print-accurate-parts.html" target="_blank">Musing: How to print accurate parts</a> for more detail on printer calibration and printing accurate parts. Also, search on "calibration" for more related posts.</div>
SublimeLayershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266175443539080935noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-11642644643936811882018-04-09T18:19:00.000-04:002018-04-09T18:19:30.476-04:00Video: Delta Printer Calibration Diagnostics<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Here's a tutorial showing how I approach diagnosing delta calibration issues using a bed probing macro. You might learn a little bit about how RepRapFirmware does it's delta calibration too.</div>
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<iframe width="320" height="266" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/TUv6cYRLi4E/0.jpg" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/TUv6cYRLi4E?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
<br />SublimeLayershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266175443539080935noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-85330342970987610702018-04-07T17:21:00.001-04:002018-04-07T17:21:23.723-04:00The SublimeLair!I am moving into a new work space for all (well, most) of my 3D printers, equipment, filament, tools, parts, etc. I call it The SublimeLair!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9I_JAErwELc/Wsk1fu6D9RI/AAAAAAAAENY/NLslNEAoH7AhcCFgFhMe6njM7m3AzSLgACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_9518.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9I_JAErwELc/Wsk1fu6D9RI/AAAAAAAAENY/NLslNEAoH7AhcCFgFhMe6njM7m3AzSLgACLcBGAs/s640/IMG_9518.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
I've been cramped in my small office as the number of printers, filament and piles of related hardware continued to grow over the years. Then, last year, I added in quadcopters and that took over more space. Now we've finally ousted my daughter's cat from the downstairs family room and had the carpets steam cleaned. I'm removing all of the kids' junk and replacing it with mine. So just outside my PFF (personal fabrication facility -<i> i.e.</i> my machine and workshop), I'll have the SublimeLair where I can produce YouTube videos undisturbed, print, ponder, have a workbench to spread out and have more orderly storage for the 100+ spools of filament I currently have (I'm running on low supplies). And I'll have a space for my two Palette+ s with dedicated four-spool filament racks for each. Exciting times, exciting times!SublimeLayershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266175443539080935noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-25531278091381809362018-03-03T17:01:00.002-05:002018-03-04T12:19:55.531-05:00Musing: How to print accurate parts<h3>
Introduction</h3>
The purpose of this post is to help you understand:<br />
<ol>
<li>what <i>accuracy</i>, <i>precision</i> and <i>resolution</i> actually mean</li>
<li>what factors influence printed part dimensional accuracy <i>and</i> precision</li>
<li>how to calibrate Cartesian and delta printers to achieve high dimensional accuracy</li>
<li>how to use RepRapFirmware's <b>M579 Scale Cartesian Axes</b> command to compensate for X-Y dimensional issues on a delta printer</li>
</ol>
<div>
As you read this, keep in mind I am a <a href="https://duet3d.dozuki.com/" target="_blank">Duet controller</a> and <a href="https://duet3d.dozuki.com/c/RepRapFirmware" target="_blank">RepRapFirmware</a> (RRF) convert and have been since the dc42 release with David Crocker's superb delta auto-calibration least-squares fit for the important delta calibration parameters. I use Duets (all models from the original 0.6 to the 0.8.5 and now the Duet 2 Wifi and Ethernet controllers) on all of my machines, currently 6 deltas, 1 CoreXY and 1 Cartesian printer. But I've built and sold or helped many others build their delta, CoreXY and Cartesian printers with Duets and RRF. Although some of what I describe is unique to RRF (the LSF auto-calibration and M579) the overall process for calibrating your printer to get dimensionally accurate parts still applies.</div>
<h3>
A Little Reality Check</h3>
Before we embark, have realistic expectations about what to expect from Fused Filament Fabrication (FFF) 3D printing! Think about the process – the printer is melting plastic filament and pushing it through a tiny orifice to create a thin layer – a really thin layer - of plastic as it moves. These thin layers are stacked one on top of another to create a 3D part. What could possibly go wrong?<br />
<br />
All part-making technologies from blow and injection molding plastics to high-end CNC machining metals have limitations, tradeoffs and part design constraints. Let's look at injection molding a little closer since it uses similar materials to our FFF printers. Molten plastic changes dimension and shape as it is cooled – typically it shrinks. High precision injection molding takes this into consideration and molds are designed and painstakingly machined (<i>i.e.</i> $$$) to accommodate this shrinkage. But the actual part accuracy is <i>highly</i> dependent on the plastic formulation and purity, melt temperature, environment (humidity, ambient temperature, etc), molding pressure, mold residence time, mold temperature, and many other parameters <u>including</u> the part geometry itself. It is very complex and varying <i>any one</i> of these parameters can significantly affect the dimensions (accuracy) of the molded parts. Consider that these are million dollar machines in clean room, controlled environments using highly purified feedstock plastic and churning out thousands of identical parts. What chance do we have with a $1000 home-built 3D printer, printing inexpensive plastic filament in a home environment (<i>i.e.</i> big fluctuations in temperature and humidity) printing one part and then moving on to the next?<br />
<br />
Consider that injection molded part tolerances for typical 75mm to 150mm cubic parts (in other words, the size of parts we typically 3D print) on dedicated commercial injection molding machines with highly engineered molds ($$) is around <a href="http://www.designinfosystem.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=55&Itemid=57" target="_blank">0.23mm to 0.30mm for standard commercial moldings and 0.15 mm to 0.20mm for fine precision modlings</a> (at much greater cost) in ABS. Think about that for a moment. Even in highly precise molding shops, the upper limit is only about an order of magnitude better (.015mm to .020mm).<br />
<br />
You should not expect ± 0.01mm precision from your 3D printer. By the way, that's 0.0004" - a precision that even high-end CNC milling centers must work hard to maintain. If you've built or purchased a very geometrically accurate 3D printer and are meticulous and consistent in your approach to printing, you can attain ±0.05mm precision with experience and practice from a 0.4mm nozzle. But results within ±0.10mm precision are more typical and certainly PDG (pretty darned good) for most structural and ornamental prints.<br />
<h3>
Accuracy, Precision and Resolution - Oh My</h3>
Have you ever wondered what "accuracy" and "precision" and "resolution" mean? These confuse many people. I cringe every time I read a post that talks about "accuracy" when they actually mean "precision". Let me give simple definitions for each and then a drawing that should put it all into perspective:<br />
<br />
<b>accuracy</b> – is a description of <i>repeatable</i> errors (how close the size of the actual printed item is to the true size)<br />
<br />
<b>precision</b> – is a description of <i>random</i> errors (if you print that item multiple times, how much does it vary for each print or, in other words, how repeatable it is)<br />
<br />
<b>resolution</b> – is the <i>smallest increment</i> you can measure (applied to your printer it is the smallest increment it can move precisely and/or the smallest feature it can print)<br />
<br />
Resolution is related to precision but is NOT the same thing and often mistaken for precision. Resolution dictates the upper limit of precision. So, if your printer is not able to resolve movements of 0.05mm then your printed precision can never be better than that.<br />
<br />
Another complication arises with resolution and that is attributed to the resolution of the STL model you are printing. If the model was tesselated with a <a href="http://www.sublimelayers.com/2016/01/musings-on-impact-of-stl-triangle-count.html" target="_blank">low polygon count</a> such that the resulting sliced line segments are longer than your printer's mechanical resolution, your prints will likely not be accurate. This is a subtle issue that most 3D printing enthusiasts don't realize – now <i>you</i> are armed with that knowledge.<br />
<br />
Now take a look at the figure below. A target and bullseye is the classic way to show accuracy and precision. I've added a third dimension, resolution, to the picture.<br />
<br />
The top row shows the difference between accuracy and precision at low resolution – the grid used to measure the position of each red star is very large. The stars in the bullseye can't be distinguished from each other since they are all in the same grid square – the resolution of measurement for the top row of targets.<br />
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The bottom row shows the same accuracy and precision as the top row but at high resolution. Here you can see the grid is much finer so you can distinguish the difference between stars even if they are all in the bullseye.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WgRkiJpC0GU/WptAbqOZigI/AAAAAAAAEL8/g_w76w1CENUwOWWlWZ1a7zGoYDjGwhJBQCLcBGAs/s1600/Accuracy-Precision-Resolution.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="792" data-original-width="1584" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WgRkiJpC0GU/WptAbqOZigI/AAAAAAAAEL8/g_w76w1CENUwOWWlWZ1a7zGoYDjGwhJBQCLcBGAs/s640/Accuracy-Precision-Resolution.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Click image for larger view</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
Think about this... <i>high accuracy and high precision</i> is, of course, best and the goal. But what can we say about <i>low accuracy and high precision</i>? In this case, a simple <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fudge_factor" target="_blank">fudge factor</a> could be used to compensate for the low accuracy. Once you know what this fudge factor – or compensation – is, you can apply it to each star and the results would be high accuracy and high precision! This is not true for the two cases on the right. There is no simple fudge factor that can fix low precision. So given the choice, always choose high precision over high accuracy. Accuracy is easy to adjust, precision is not.<br />
<br />
Look at the definitions above again – precision is random, accuracy is repeatable. Hopefully this makes more sense now. Let's see how all this applies to your printed parts, that's why you are reading this right?<br />
<h3>
What Affects Printed Part Accuracy?</h3>
Realize that dimensionally accuracy and precision is dependent on a lot of factors including:<br />
<ol>
<li>the <b>mechanical resolution and precision</b> of the printer itself</li>
<ol>
<li>with Cartesian printers, the resolution for Z is usually different than the resolution in X and Y</li>
<li>with delta printers, the resolution for X, Y and Z is the same but the resolution decreases from the center of the bed to the perimeter</li>
</ol>
<li>the <b>mechanical resolution and precision</b> of the extruder</li>
<li>nozzle <b>orifice diameter</b> – and don't forget about the accuracy of the diameter</li>
<li>the type of <b>plastic</b> <b>filament</b> </li>
<li>the <b>extrusion temperature</b> AND <b>extrusion flow rate</b> (which is determined by print speed)</li>
<li>the <b>quality of the STL file</b> (low polygon counts are course, high polygon counts are more precise)</li>
<li>how you <b>slice</b> the STL file (one perimeter is suboptimal, perimeter print order, infill density)</li>
</ol>
<div>
That's a lot to take into consideration and there are other factors too – but they have a lesser impact so I'll ignore them for this discussion.</div>
<h3>
A Strategy for Accurate Parts</h3>
<div>
You've just built or purchased a 3D printer and want to print some replacements for some broken parts on one of your kid's toys. These parts need to fit properly on the toy – they can't be too large or too small. Let's assume you have a 3D model of the parts. Let's also assume you know a little bit about slicing and have watched all of my <a href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC6scgqmuRHaHy_JZClUilFA" target="_blank">YouTube</a> videos and read all of my blog posts on the topic. Here's how to proceed – in order...</div>
<div>
<ol>
<li><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Mnq5SfXVSA&t=125s" target="_blank">calibrate your extruder</a></li>
<li>calibrate your printer (more below)</li>
<li><a href="http://www.sublimelayers.com/2016/01/musings-on-impact-of-stl-triangle-count.html" target="_blank">create an STL file from your model</a></li>
<li>slice your STL file (see my numerous videos and posts)</li>
<li>print three or more test cubes (a 25mm "calibration cube")</li>
<li>measure the printed test cubes</li>
<li>adjust the printer's firmware calibration to fix any problems</li>
<li>repeat steps 5-7 to verify</li>
<li>use firmware compensation (if available) to fix minor discrepancies</li>
</ol>
<div>
From the measurements you should get an idea of how accurate and precise you can print this simple test part. If these are within the requirements for the replacement toy part, you are ready to go! But if your accuracy is off (say the X and Y are always larger than expected) or precision is poor, then you have some work to do.</div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<i>A note about precision:</i> determining precision is deceptively difficult. Measuring printed parts is almost an art in-and-of itself due to the variability in the sidewalls caused by the printed layers. Measuring a part's height (Z) is more precise because the bottom layer is quite flat (depending on your print surface) and the top layer is likewise flat and measurement with a simple caliper averages any unevenness. Measuring a part's length and width is a greater challenge since the layers make it difficult to find a flat surface to register against. Also, printer artifacts like blobs and strings appear on these layers, again complicating measurement. Measuring length or width in one place on the part might yield a different value than measuring even a millimeter higher or lower. In general, I like to measure across the layers as shown in the photo below. I take three measurements – one near the front, one in the center and one near the back - and average them. Make sure not to be thrown off by a burr on the first layer. Assuming that your printer has the mechanical resolution to obtain it and you are willing to work to achieve it, a precision of ±0.05mm is achievable.</div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Fm0nYxOyBS8/WpsUrVm0jeI/AAAAAAAAELs/v6skfsyC8kY7YVG15N2-i1woyzCpqGX3wCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_9435.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1593" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Fm0nYxOyBS8/WpsUrVm0jeI/AAAAAAAAELs/v6skfsyC8kY7YVG15N2-i1woyzCpqGX3wCLcBGAs/s400/IMG_9435.jpg" width="397" /></a></div>
<h3>
Cartesian Printer Calibration</h3>
<div>
Cartesian printers are generally easier to calibrate to get good dimensional accuracy than delta printers due to their linear motion mechanics and independence of the three axes. Once you've printed and measured your parts, adjustments to improve X, Y or Z accuracy is done with the axes' steps/mm parameter in firmware. For instance, let's assume you printed a 25mm calibration cube and your average Y measurement came out to 25.10mm. Your firmware currently has 800 steps/mm configured for Y. The formula to adjust the steps/mm is:</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>adjusted steps/mm = steps/mm * (true size / measured size)</i></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
For our example, this becomes:</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>adjusted steps/mm </i>= 800s steps/mm * (25.0/25.1) = 796.8 steps/mm</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Update your firmware and re-print the test cube and Y should be much closer to 25.0mm. Each of the three Cartesian axes are independent and can be calibrated individually in this way.</div>
<h3>
Delta Printer Calibration</h3>
<div>
Calibrating a delta printer is a much bigger challenge due to the math involved in the kinematics (it is based on trigonometry) and the inter-dependance of the three delta axes. I'm not going to go into detailed delta kinematics discussion here but I will touch on the basics you'll need to calibrate your printer.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The first thing to recognize is that the delta firmware calculates the position of the nozzle from the Cartesian coordinates fed to it in g-code. The g-code for a delta printer is – and should be – almost indistinguishable from the g-code used to print on a Cartesian printer (if the home position on the Cartesian is defined as the center of the print bed, otherwise the X-Y offset to home needs to be considered). The delta firmware calculates positions of the carriages that run up and down on the three towers. All movement in the X, Y or Z Cartesian space requires moving all three tower carriages. Confusingly, these towers are sometimes labeled X, Y and Z – but understand that they <b><u>are not</u></b> X, Y, Z Cartesian coordinates. It would have been nice if alpha, beta and gamma or some other label were used to reference the three towers on a delta printer.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Delta calibration depends on a lot of attributes but I'll focus on the main ones here. Some of the others really should be addressed in the mechanical build (<i>i.e.</i> tower lean and tower location errors, arm length variation, etc). The effects of these can be minimized with sophisticated firmware features like delta auto-calibration (RepRapFirmware) and grid compensation or the M579 compensation discussed later. The main parameters are:</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>delta radius</li>
<li>diagonal rod length (arm length)</li>
<li>the three tower steps/mm</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div>
See <a href="http://minow.blogspot.com/">minow.blogspot.com</a> for the classic delta calibration guide. Note, that I left off homed height - that affects the first layer height and not the absolute X, Y, Z positioning.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The approach to calibrating a delta printer is:</div>
<div>
<ol>
<li>Adjust the steps/mm for all three towers to get the correct Z movement. This can be calculated based on the stepper motor step angle, driver microstepping, number of pulley tooth count and belt pitch. For pure movements in Z, all three carriages move the same amount. This is exactly like a Cartesian printer. The <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/calculator/" target="_blank">Prusa steps per mm calculator</a> for belt systems can be used to calculate this.</li>
<li>Measure or estimate the delta radius and arm length. It is best to actually measure these or use the manufacturer's recommendations. At the very least, roughly measure them. Plug these starting values for delta radius and arm length into the config.g (RepRapFirmware) M665 command. You can take a rough measurement for home height (the distance from the homed nozzle tip to the bed in mm) and enter that too. </li>
<li>Bring the bed up to print temperature. I also prefer to bring the hot end up to temperature too. Allow to stabilize for at least 5 minutes once they have reached the target temperature.</li>
<li>Make sure to delete the config-override.g file if there is one. Then run delta calibration (G32) three or more times. Each time you run it, it will print the calibration results and the deviation of the calculated fit. You want to run enough times for the deviation to converge. You can see this in the G-code Console in the Web interface. The final converged deviation should be below 0.04 for best results. If it is higher, it is best to track down the issue and fix it. If you are using FSR probing, 99% of the time the problem is the bed is constrained, resulting in more force than necessary to trigger the FSR.</li>
<li>Run M500, which will persist the calibration results to a config-override.g file.</li>
<li>Print three 25 mm test cubes and measure their height. This will give you some information on how precise your printer's Z motion is. If there is a lot of variability in the heights, you should try to determine the cause and fix it. Usually it is a mechanical "slop" issue – loose belts, loose pulleys, or stepper motors not mounted firmly. </li>
<li>If the height (Z) is off, adjust the tower steps/mm to correct the printed height. This is the same as the calculation described above in the <i>Cartesian Printer Calibration</i> section. Edit the M92 command in config.g using this new value – all three towers (X, Y, Z) should be the same.</li>
<li>Repeat steps 6 and 7 until your measured height is within the range ±0.05mm of the true value. This is a very good precision for FFF printers and requires some work to achieve. You should be happy with ±0.10mm of true value for most non-critical work. 0.10 mm is only four one-thousands of an inch – or roughly twice the diameter of a human hair.</li>
<li>Now measure the test cube's length (X) and width (Y). These should be the same (within your printer's precision, again between ±0.05 to ±0.10). The firmware diagonal rod length determines the X-Y scaling of the printed part. This is the L parameter in the M665 command. Use the measured X value to proceed, if X and Y are different, we'll address that next. You calculate the corrected value like this: <i style="text-align: center;">corrected L = original L * (measured X / true X)</i></li>
<li>Print another test cube and measure X and Y. If X is not within your printer's precision (between ±0.05 to ±0.10) repeat steps 9 and 10 until it is.</li>
<li>Now turn your attention to Y. Ideally, X and Y will be nearly equal (within tolerance). If not, the best approach is to identify and correct the geometrical error that is causing the discrepancy. Culprits include tower rotation, tower lean, arm length variations, and non-circular delta "radius". If you can't fix the geometrical issue and the variation is not large (say less than 5%), you can use the RRF's <a href="https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#M579:_Scale_Cartesian_axes" target="_blank">M579 command</a> to <i>compensate</i> for the variation. You should only use M579 as a last resort and I highly recommend calibrating Z properly and calibrating either X or Y properly, leaving M579 to compensate the other axis (Y if you calibrated X).</li>
</ol>
<h3>
Conclusion</h3>
</div>
<div>
The most important thing you can do to print the most accurate parts possible is to make sure your printer's geometry is as close to perfect as you can get it. Time spent finding and fixing geometry issues – and this applies to both Cartesian and delta printers – is time well spent and will yield much more consistent results. The next most important thing you can do is have realistic expectations on part accuracy. After reading this post, you should have a clear idea on what that means. The third most important thing you can do is carefully calibrate your printer. And lastly, try to be as consistent as possible – including using the same filament (even color), slicing attributes, and room temperature and humidity.<br />
<br />
For my work, I prefer to print <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZKIl2A-zWvygdTxv66xSdNkBVo5HNY_D/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">100mm x 100mm x 50mm</a> test objects. This larger size reduces measurement errors and exercises more of the printer mechanics. Of course they take much longer to print but for exacting work, that shouldn't be an issue.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
If you have an application where dimensional accuracy is critical and you've done all of the above and your printer prints accurate and precise calibration cubes, I'd recommend looking at the polygon count in the STL, consider how part geometry could be affecting things (thin walls for example) and if all else fails, consider tweaking the scaling of one or more dimensions in the model to compensate for the variation. Another option if you designed the part, is to design for "tolerance tolerant" –------------------ meaning consider how FFF printing tolerances can affect your parts and design accordingly. Some examples are designing parts that are an integral number of layers in Z height and an integral number of extrusion widths for thin walled features.</div>
<div>
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<div>
I wrote this post in a stream of consciousness to help a few of my supporters on my Slack channel. Please let me know if there are any errors or points that are confusing and I will update this post as needed.</div>
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SublimeLayershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266175443539080935noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-715563614217754332017-12-18T13:37:00.001-05:002017-12-28T09:12:05.678-05:00Plastic Razor Blades? Oh Yeah!I'm always looking for ways to reduce my cycle times for printing lots of parts every day - or just to make my life a little easier. I've been using these very cool plastic razor blades for a few months and I give them the "SublimeLayers Seal of Approval" for non-destructive part removal and general print bed cleanup without fear of damaging the bed.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hDHcn6CvUq8/WjgKThuRtFI/AAAAAAAADwA/pu0ZARWsqAQOXon-vOWZchcxhjrxE_zKgCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_9128.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1569" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hDHcn6CvUq8/WjgKThuRtFI/AAAAAAAADwA/pu0ZARWsqAQOXon-vOWZchcxhjrxE_zKgCLcBGAs/s400/IMG_9128.jpg" width="390" /></a></div>
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They look like a standard single edge razor blade - and you can even put them in a box cutter. They are not sharp like a razor blade but they are remarkably keen-edged. I got mine in a bag of 100 from Amazon and they have really simplified cleanup.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8GsBYwJnc4Q/WjgKTr6hJNI/AAAAAAAADv8/dANM-yDFwn4Xkt28oGoVOn5TV_8HqbcswCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_9123.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1483" data-original-width="1600" height="370" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8GsBYwJnc4Q/WjgKTr6hJNI/AAAAAAAADv8/dANM-yDFwn4Xkt28oGoVOn5TV_8HqbcswCLcBGAs/s400/IMG_9123.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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UPDATE: Several people have suggested I setup an Amazon Affiliate and link to interesting and useful products that I recommend. So here we go! Thank you for your support!<br />
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<a href="http://amzn.to/2BRP6nP" target="_blank">Plastic Single Edge Razor Blades</a><br />
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Although these are not the exact blade I show above, I purchased these last time and they are functionally equivalent. The <a href="http://amzn.to/2BP0WyY" target="_blank">original source</a> has been out of stock.<br />
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SublimeLayershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266175443539080935noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-42376462999258019122017-12-12T21:14:00.000-05:002017-12-12T21:14:19.511-05:00Musings on Under-extrusion - More to think aboutMy <a href="http://www.sublimelayers.com/2017/12/musing-on-under-extrusion-prepare-to.html" target="_blank">blog post yesterday</a> detailing results of the under-extrusion experiment seems to be getting some attention - it had the highest number of views in the first 24 hours of any post I've made to date. In this follow-up post I'm going to show - at a very high level - how the voids are distributed and how large they are.<br />
<br />
In practice, the geometry of the deposited <a href="https://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/extrudate" target="_blank">extrudate</a> is very complex and dependent on a lot of factors including:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>extrusion width vs orifice diameter</li>
<li>extrusion height to width ratio</li>
<li>material viscosity</li>
<li>for the first layer, adhesion properties of the bed surface</li>
<li>and a lot of others</li>
</ul>
<br />
In the under-extrusion experiment and my standard print conditions, I use an extrusion width equal to the diameter of the orifice so the analysis here assumes that. If your extrusion width is larger or smaller than the nozzle orifice diameter, things get more complicated, fast.<br />
<br />
I've been doing these experiments and studies for several years. I've also dissected a lot of parts and have attempted to cut the parts in cross section so I can scrutinize the deposited filament under magnification. I've never been able to get clear photos but I am working on it. You'll have to take my observations at face value - or conduct your own experiments to confirm my assertions.<br />
<br />
Making the cross-section drawings below is a time-consuming process so I focused on three cases:<br />
<br />
<ol>
<li>full extrusion</li>
<li>10% under-extruded</li>
<li>20% under-extruded</li>
</ol>
<br />
Based on part observations, I modeled the deposited filament cross-section as a round cornered rectangle. In reality, they are a more complicated geometry and the first layer geometry is different than upper layers due to the constraint imposed by they bed (it is perfectly flat, unlike printing on an existing extruded layer). As a simplification, I performed my analysis and calculation on cross-section area and not on extrusion volume. In practice, filament deposition happens when the nozzle moves in the X-Y plane and that introduces shear forces that further affect the cross-sectional geometry. But, I assert, there is a lot to be learned from this simple two-dimensional analysis.<br />
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I began by calculating the area for the three cases as shown here:<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mckpuf_aRXI/WjCC7xTS8CI/AAAAAAAADvY/13eDaGDk5norH9kzG2v3sH4-fQg4EYIZACLcBGAs/s1600/areacals.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="220" data-original-width="410" height="213" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mckpuf_aRXI/WjCC7xTS8CI/AAAAAAAADvY/13eDaGDk5norH9kzG2v3sH4-fQg4EYIZACLcBGAs/s400/areacals.PNG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Next, I assumed that in all three cases the extrudate width and height will be the same - in this case 0.4mm (W) and 0.2mm (H). So, the task was to calculate the corner radius that results in the target cross-sectional area. I'll leave the math as an excercise for you, dear reader, but if you are interested please post in the comments and I'll fill in the details. Here are the calculated corner radii in mms.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LUZGwYSDmDk/WjCE2shbFGI/AAAAAAAADvo/ooUiN8YRwFI7LVYwWjr99h4LDzBNByq3gCLcBGAs/s1600/cornerradius.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="189" data-original-width="273" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LUZGwYSDmDk/WjCE2shbFGI/AAAAAAAADvo/ooUiN8YRwFI7LVYwWjr99h4LDzBNByq3gCLcBGAs/s1600/cornerradius.PNG" /></a></div>
The final step was to create scaled drawings of the extrudate cross-sections using these corner radii. I used this cross-section to create a simple "print model" cross-section that is two perimeters wide and two layers high as shown here:<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--Pq5yacAjLE/WjB7ZRL30UI/AAAAAAAADvM/mDUL9VPPUzgWYsj1-iF_QJyQi9UGGy0lgCEwYBhgL/s1600/UnderExtrusionBeads.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1510" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--Pq5yacAjLE/WjB7ZRL30UI/AAAAAAAADvM/mDUL9VPPUzgWYsj1-iF_QJyQi9UGGy0lgCEwYBhgL/s640/UnderExtrusionBeads.png" width="603" /></a></div>
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Take a close look at these cross-sections. Even at the extreme 20% under-extruded case, the void is surprisingly small and, more interestingly, are precisely distributed at the intersection of extrudate corners in the part.</div>
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Note that in reality, even the corners of the 100% case are rounded over so one has to ask where that extra filament went. Does it result in a slight width increase of the extrudate or does the slicer attempt to compensate by slightly under-extruding? I've done the back-calculations for g-code created by KISSlicer, Cura, Slic3r and Simplify3D to see how they actually handle it. This will be the subject of a future post.</div>
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Keep in mind that this deposition is happening at a very small scale, fairly quickly, and requires movement of the nozzle in the X-Y plane. As the molten filament is deposited, it can flow (<i>i.e.</i> distort) until it solidifies due to cooling. This can result in various distortions from the hypothetical simple case shown above. But guess what, looking at parts under reasonable magnification, it really does appear remarkably consistent with this simple case (for PLA extruded under reasonable conditions).</div>
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I'll leave you with one last drawing showing the 100% and 80% cases side-by-side at relative scale. If you look at your nozzle closely, you'll observe that the orifice is centered in a flat field. This field drags over the deposited filament and contributes to pressing it down into the bed or layer below. I don't have experimental evidence for the shape of the 80% under-extruded case shown on the right side of the drawing. I derived it - a simple trapezoid - by observing squeezing toothpaste against a counter top to simulate extrusion.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8REAoJugu4Y/WjB7ZXXr-bI/AAAAAAAADvM/-mjSDYnIwbck86nzX2_tbK6T7yWHfHRXgCEwYBhgL/s1600/NozzleExtrusion.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="570" data-original-width="1600" height="226" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8REAoJugu4Y/WjB7ZXXr-bI/AAAAAAAADvM/-mjSDYnIwbck86nzX2_tbK6T7yWHfHRXgCEwYBhgL/s640/NozzleExtrusion.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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SublimeLayershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266175443539080935noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-88256513294304681422017-12-11T12:02:00.002-05:002019-01-09T08:50:08.995-05:00Musings on Under-extrusion - prepare to rethink your understanding<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_jZzupI-ovw/Wi6aKhcRXbI/AAAAAAAADs0/S_FJJpoFrwECpRG-4kHJNS8eTmzjwbQDwCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/Circumerence.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="868" data-original-width="760" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_jZzupI-ovw/Wi6aKhcRXbI/AAAAAAAADs0/S_FJJpoFrwECpRG-4kHJNS8eTmzjwbQDwCPcBGAYYCw/s320/Circumerence.png" width="280" /></a></div>
<b>UPDATE:</b> my friend Tony Akens asked if I had weighed the parts to verify the commensurate reduction in mass. Of course I did! I've updated the tables to show that data.<br />
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I've asserted for a few years that under-extrusion (with the caveats listed below) is not as catastrophic as many make it out to be. I am asked to analyze lots of bad parts for my opinion on why they look bad, have gappy perimeters, first layers, and top surfaces, and other issues attributed to bad extrusion or filament diameter. I can usually (but not always) make good recommendations and they usually have nothing to do with under-extrusion. This post should dispell some of the myths and misunderstanding - or at least get you to do a few experiments of your own so you understand how your printer and filament behaves.<br />
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<div>
Before I get into those experimental details and results, first a little refresher on how FFF 3D printing extrusion works...</div>
<h3>
Extrusion Primer</h3>
<div>
From the dawn of the RepRap movement, filament extrusion calculations have been based on the <i>length</i> of raw filament feeding <i>into</i> the extruder. It is <i>not</i> the <i>length</i> of filament that is coming out of the nozzle nor is it the <i>volume</i> of filament coming out of the nozzle (although volumetric extrusion would be ideal and is coming). A properly calibrated extruder will feed exactly a 100mm length of filament when instructed to do so.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Stop and think about that for a moment...</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The extruder doesn't care if the filament is 1.75mm D or 1.60mm D or even 2.5mm D (as long as it is constructed to handle this larger filament), it will push exactly 100mm of each of these if instructed to do so in the g-code. FYI, extrusion g-code looks like this:</div>
<div>
<b>G1 E100 F60</b></div>
<div>
<ul>
<li><b>G1</b> is the "move" command</li>
<li><b>E</b> is the amount to move (or push) filament through the extruder - 100mm in this case</li>
<li><b>F</b> is the feed (speed) per minute - 60 mm/min in this case, which is 1mm/second</li>
</ul>
<div>
The amount of filament the extruder moves is calibrated - the "E-step calibration" - and I've talked about it at length in <a href="https://youtu.be/0Mnq5SfXVSA" target="_blank">one of my videos</a>. Everything I'm going to present below is critically dependent on a properly calibrated extruder, so watch the video and calibrate yours now.</div>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
While I'm discussing extruders and E-step calibration it is important to understand the impact on the number of E-steps per mm on your print quality. So let's do some calculations to help your understanding.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The circumference of a circle is calculated as:</div>
<div>
<i>Circumference = π * Diameter</i></div>
<div>
<i><br /></i></div>
<div>
Applying this formula to the extruder, it will tell us the length of filament that will wrap once around the drive gear as shown below. This will be the length of filament that will move in one full rotation of the stepper motor (of a direct stepper with no gear train).<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vTTXnTH2w_o/Wi7gXapOi2I/AAAAAAAADug/jjACD9TSAGEN3j2O402HOxeuBAkOAqg6wCLcBGAs/s1600/Circumerence.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="868" data-original-width="760" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vTTXnTH2w_o/Wi7gXapOi2I/AAAAAAAADug/jjACD9TSAGEN3j2O402HOxeuBAkOAqg6wCLcBGAs/s400/Circumerence.png" width="350" /></a></div>
Now, if we know how many steps it takes to rotate the drive gear a full turn (360°), we can calculate the steps per mm. Common stepper motors are 200 steps/rotation (although higher resolution 400 steps/rotation are affordable and gaining popularity). These are usually driven with 16 microsteps, giving 3200 steps/revolution. A discussion of microsteps is beyond this post but if there is interest, I'm happy to do a post on microstepping too.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Let's assume that the drive gear is 10mm diameter. Its circumference calculates to 31.42mm. So, 3200steps/rotation divided by 31.42 mm/rotation gives 101.85 steps/mm. This tells us that it takes 101.85 steps to move 1mm of filament through the extruder and into the hot end. Simple, eh?</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The conventional wisdom dictates that extruders in the range of 400-800 steps/mm are preferable. There is good reason for this and you can perform the math to understand the effect of steps/mm on extrusion precision. I am not aware of any experimental evidence for this though and it would be challenging to design such an experiment and more challenging to analyze the results. So the best we have is anecdotal evidence from folks like me who have spent 1000s of hours printing with low and high-resolution extruders.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
With that behind us, let's take a closer look <i>inside</i> the extruder as shown below. Simple extruders use an idler bearing to push against the filament opposite the drive gear as shown. This is to make sure the drive gear grips the filament so the filament moves when the cog rotates. Most extruders provide a tension adjustment for setting the pressure the idler bearing exerts on the filament.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
If you apply too much idler pressure, you can distort the plastic filament as shown in the drawing below. Hard filaments like PLA distort less than soft filaments like TPU. PETG and ABS are in between. But, unless the filament (or drive gear) slips (or the stepper skips steps), the extruder will deliver whatever it is asked to extrude. </div>
<div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qi1xKLZhmzQ/Wi6XKmb1AtI/AAAAAAAADsk/OGSwEsmmfE0f498neWmy9F6eR8NhKE3GgCLcBGAs/s1600/Extruder%2BDetail.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1600" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qi1xKLZhmzQ/Wi6XKmb1AtI/AAAAAAAADsk/OGSwEsmmfE0f498neWmy9F6eR8NhKE3GgCLcBGAs/s640/Extruder%2BDetail.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<div>
Excessive idler pressure can permanently damage the filament (those teeth marks you may have seen or felt on your filament) and this damage can cause all sorts of inexplicable print problems when these grooves catch on surfaces and edges inside the extruder and hot end. I recall diagnosing extrusion issues related to these ridges catching on the edges of a Bowden tube 4 or 5 years ago and dug out this old photo:</div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-n7Sr4KQAgDA/Wi6pQjj8SJI/AAAAAAAADtE/dtI6nasCvhUULg8PlSnVclx6PWsVlN-jACLcBGAs/s1600/Ridges.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1040" height="307" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-n7Sr4KQAgDA/Wi6pQjj8SJI/AAAAAAAADtE/dtI6nasCvhUULg8PlSnVclx6PWsVlN-jACLcBGAs/s400/Ridges.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div>
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<div>
Not only can this damaged filament snag on things, it increases the effective filament diameter, which can create excess friction in Bowden tubes. It is best to use the least amount of idler pressure as required to minimize this damage.</div>
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<b>Sidebar:</b> I prefer Bondtech extruders because they use <i>two</i> drive gears - one on each side of the filament. This allows a much lower pressure setting to get high extrusion forces, resulting in less damage to the filament and better extrusion consistency. I have blogged about Bondtech here, so search or find the Bondtech tagged posts to learn more.</div>
<h3>
Under-extrusion Print Test</h3>
<div>
Ok, let's get to the heart of this post! Over the last few months, I've had a spike in the number of print issues blamed on under-extrusion. I've patiently tried to explain that the photographed results were likely not the result of filament diameter variations or other extrusion-related issues. So this weekend I decided to conduct a controlled experiment to finally put this to bed.</div>
<h4>
Experimental Design</h4>
<div>
For this test, I used a stock Ultibots D300VS with its Micro Extruder and an E3D V6 hot end. The extruder was carefully calibrated as described in the video I linked above. This resulted in an E-step value of 780 steps/mm. This printer runs a Duet WiFi and RepRapFirmware.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
For the test part, I used a 30mm cube with two vertical edges rounded - this is my standard test cube as it provides more information than a typical cube with sharp corners. I sliced the part with KISSlicer 1.6.2 as:</div>
<ul>
<li>195°C extrusion temp</li>
<li>55°C bed temp</li>
<li>PEI bed surface</li>
<li>Filament: 1.75mm D PLA (no name brand)</li>
<li>Destring: 1mm at 20 mm/s </li>
<li>Extrusion width: .4mm </li>
<li>Layer thickness: .2mm </li>
<li>Fixed layers </li>
<li>Infill: 33% straight </li>
<li>3.5 loops and 3 shells </li>
<li>Loop1>Perim </li>
<li>Seam Join-Loop </li>
<li>360° Jitter </li>
<li>Speeds: </li>
<ul>
<li>Perim: 30 mm/s </li>
<li>Loops: 45 mm/s </li>
<li>Solid: 50 mm/s </li>
<li>Sparse: 50mm/s</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<div>
<ul><ul style="list-style-type: disc;">
</ul>
</ul>
</div>
<div>
The goal was to print this part at 100% as a baseline and then at 5%, 10%, 15% and 20% under-extruded to compare. Photos of the first layer and completed part were taken of each test and dimensional measurements of the width, depth and height made for each test part.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
To achieve the under-extrusion, I simply calculated and set the E-step value in the firmware (config.g in RepRapFirmware using M92). I verified the new E-step value was indeed set before each test print as well as did a quick and dirty 100mm extrusion test to validate that the reduced length of filament was indeed delivered.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Each experiment is color-coded to make it easy to digest the data:</div>
<div>
<ol>
<li>red is normal, 100%</li>
<li>orange is 5% under</li>
<li>yellow is 10% under</li>
<li>green is 15% under</li>
<li>blue is 20% under</li>
</ol>
</div>
<div>
<h4>
Analysis</h4>
</div>
<div>
Let's start with the table showing the under-extrusion part measurements and observations:<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q0EUr-CNHnk/Wi7srB6O5MI/AAAAAAAADu0/VM-5IV88d1IPprlFQzTbplvD7DxW9W_0QCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-12-11%2Bat%2B3.36.40%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="547" data-original-width="1600" height="218" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-q0EUr-CNHnk/Wi7srB6O5MI/AAAAAAAADu0/VM-5IV88d1IPprlFQzTbplvD7DxW9W_0QCLcBGAs/s640/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-12-11%2Bat%2B3.36.40%2BPM.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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As you can see here, the X and Y dimensions of the part decreased slightly with increasing under-extrusion but the Z (height) was remarkably consistent. The part mass reduced as expected, we'll see if it tracks the expected reduction in the next table. I then calculated the measurement errors as shown here:<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QBABVL3WDtA/Wi7srCK3gvI/AAAAAAAADuw/rUSH0zBkmVs9goHVkhI-Zs90pdT3QGVxwCEwYBhgL/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-12-11%2Bat%2B3.36.51%2BPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="494" data-original-width="738" height="213" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QBABVL3WDtA/Wi7srCK3gvI/AAAAAAAADuw/rUSH0zBkmVs9goHVkhI-Zs90pdT3QGVxwCEwYBhgL/s320/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-12-11%2Bat%2B3.36.51%2BPM.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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<div>
Yes, the mass of the parts tracks the expected loss due to the under-extrusion. So we know for sure that the parts were indeed being under-extruded.<br />
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Even at significant - 20% - under-extrusion, the part dimensions are quite good.</div>
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<div>
Now let's look at the photos of these parts.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yCLgZt7g9Ic/Wi6xKe66C6I/AAAAAAAADto/Y7IMtlm63ZcHCm2na5Nni-BKEhh98OsBgCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-12-11%2Bat%2B11.22.22%2BAM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="771" data-original-width="1520" height="324" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yCLgZt7g9Ic/Wi6xKe66C6I/AAAAAAAADto/Y7IMtlm63ZcHCm2na5Nni-BKEhh98OsBgCLcBGAs/s640/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-12-11%2Bat%2B11.22.22%2BAM.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tB7Z-yolc8w/Wi6xKY3ktoI/AAAAAAAADt0/DibA7pQ_8Q4zkcFWDcXeCV5Mc91qP2fqACLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-12-11%2Bat%2B11.22.31%2BAM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="767" data-original-width="1518" height="322" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tB7Z-yolc8w/Wi6xKY3ktoI/AAAAAAAADt0/DibA7pQ_8Q4zkcFWDcXeCV5Mc91qP2fqACLcBGAs/s640/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-12-11%2Bat%2B11.22.31%2BAM.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QxEmKvUZUKs/Wi6xKs5B07I/AAAAAAAADts/NKYdBx_oDoQQs2w3xRP679xMgLhDbJLZQCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-12-11%2Bat%2B11.22.41%2BAM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="766" data-original-width="1515" height="322" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QxEmKvUZUKs/Wi6xKs5B07I/AAAAAAAADts/NKYdBx_oDoQQs2w3xRP679xMgLhDbJLZQCLcBGAs/s640/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-12-11%2Bat%2B11.22.41%2BAM.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aikioZ-qr_U/Wi6xLCF2TZI/AAAAAAAADtw/eZBJ1MJuSK8FQ7vtWvKnKP-QaOrjxMEygCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-12-11%2Bat%2B11.22.51%2BAM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="767" data-original-width="1514" height="324" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aikioZ-qr_U/Wi6xLCF2TZI/AAAAAAAADtw/eZBJ1MJuSK8FQ7vtWvKnKP-QaOrjxMEygCLcBGAs/s640/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-12-11%2Bat%2B11.22.51%2BAM.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M42Vx1Qx0TM/Wi6xLsOBtdI/AAAAAAAADt4/sudXi2NevQU4tX5jsMvy4tC963lFgvIbACLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-12-11%2Bat%2B11.22.59%2BAM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="1513" height="324" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-M42Vx1Qx0TM/Wi6xLsOBtdI/AAAAAAAADt4/sudXi2NevQU4tX5jsMvy4tC963lFgvIbACLcBGAs/s640/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-12-11%2Bat%2B11.22.59%2BAM.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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Finally, I wanted to see if I could calculate an <i>effective filament diameter</i> - that is, what diameter of filament would result in the same decrease in extrusion volume in the print if it were extruded at 100%. Here are the calculations:</div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YmWpkcVEoqU/Wi61VdWiaWI/AAAAAAAADuQ/QVVuXVaTJjwy_OE7KbV1Rz1zYkurPJs-ACLcBGAs/s1600/Effective%2BFilament%2BDIameter.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="515" data-original-width="1558" height="210" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YmWpkcVEoqU/Wi61VdWiaWI/AAAAAAAADuQ/QVVuXVaTJjwy_OE7KbV1Rz1zYkurPJs-ACLcBGAs/s640/Effective%2BFilament%2BDIameter.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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The important column is the <b>Calculated diameter</b> - it shows what the corresponding filament diameter would be to produce the associated under-extrusion. Surprising huh? So if we accept that under-extrusion up to about 10% produces reasonable parts, then your filament could vary from 1.75mm to 1.66 mm in diameter and also yield respectable looking parts.</div>
</h4>
<h4>
Conclusions</h4>
<div>
What may be surprising and counter-intuitive to many, it is clear that under this set of conditions, filament and part geometry that significant under-extrusion up to 10% under was basically insignificant. The first and top layers were filled completely with no gaps, the walls (perimeters) were also tight and looked excellent. Dimensionally, the parts are all within realistic expectations for FFF 3D prints. I carefully observed the infill as these parts printed and the infill also looked indistinguishable over this range of under-extrusion.</div>
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<div>
At 15% under-extruded, I really didn't see any visual difference but under magnification, both the first and top layers show striations due to the edges of the extruded paths not quite bonding as closely to each other.</div>
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<div>
At 20% under-extruded, there were visible gaps in the internal perimeters as well as visible striations on the first and top surfaces. But surprisingly, even these 20% UNDER-EXTRUDED parts looked quite respectable.</div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1nztXBEYGrk/Wi6xLnZE7mI/AAAAAAAADt8/X-e8WnbJG64BEqmbS1fjTNn8UFBWHaENQCLcBGAs/s1600/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-12-11%2Bat%2B11.23.09%2BAM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="726" data-original-width="1600" height="290" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1nztXBEYGrk/Wi6xLnZE7mI/AAAAAAAADt8/X-e8WnbJG64BEqmbS1fjTNn8UFBWHaENQCLcBGAs/s640/Screen%2BShot%2B2017-12-11%2Bat%2B11.23.09%2BAM.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<b>Family Portrait</b></div>
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I did not perform strength tests for any of these parts. One could argue that reducing the amount of plastic should result in weaker parts. I agree. The 20% under-extruded part showed pronounced gaps between perimeters, surely that would be weaker than tightly bonded perimeters. But how strong is strong enough?</div>
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The bottom line is, FFF 3D printing is surprisingly robust to non-trivial under-extrusion in the range up to 10% under-extruded, and possibly higher depending on your requirements. This is why I have been saying for years that I don't advocate tweaking e-steps, slicer flow adjust or any other slicer extrusion fudge factor for reasonable filament diameters.</div>
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Arguably, if you have a demanding part that requires the best precision you can muster, then perhaps setting the measured filament diameter in your slicer (and validating your extruder calibration) might make sense - but <i>please</i> don't use fudge factors like flow adjust.</div>
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At some point, you are just chasing zeros. This is plastic, after all, that is melted, squirted out of a ridiculously small orifice and deposited in layers to make a 3-dimensional object! Don't expect CNC machined metal precision. Realize that 0.01mm is only four <i>ten-thousandths of an inch</i> (0.00039)!</div>
<h4>
Next Steps</h4>
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The calibration cube was an "ideal" part, it would be interesting to run this same experiment with real-world parts (anything but Benchys please). I would expect similar results based on my experience.</div>
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It would also be interesting to repeat this with other filaments, especially ABS, PETG and TPU.</div>
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SublimeLayershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266175443539080935noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-16594843498562691912017-12-05T10:38:00.001-05:002017-12-05T10:38:21.596-05:00Print Contest #1 Example PrintI posted details about the new series of print contests yesterday. Of course, I won't ask anyone to print something that I can't print so here is an example print and submission:<br />
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<a href="http://www.kisslicer.com/" target="_blank">KISSlicer 1.6.2</a><br />
- adaptive layers 0.08 to 0.25<br />
- 3.5 loops<br />
- .6 skin (3 shells)<br />
- speeds: perimeter: 18.8mm/s, loops: 33.6mm/s, solid: 33.60mm/s, sparse: 50.4mm/s<br />
- <a href="https://fillamentum.com/collections/pla-extrafill/products/pla-extrafill-vertigo-galaxy" target="_blank">Fillamentum Vertigo Galaxy PLA</a><br />
- <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2407174" target="_blank">RailCore II</a> (CoreXY) printer with Bondtech BMG and custom water cooled E3D V6 hot end<br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WL_7xoeMT14/WialpsZF3mI/AAAAAAAADqc/J4f3XIWg4QwyEDleRjqCEjwgGYCoptBUACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_9061.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WL_7xoeMT14/WialpsZF3mI/AAAAAAAADqc/J4f3XIWg4QwyEDleRjqCEjwgGYCoptBUACLcBGAs/s400/IMG_9061.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Hs2hV7MPTDA/WialpmSkYPI/AAAAAAAADqg/w7gklscPg_QqGbA0Plw0KKdWO4cPzV4LACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_9063.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Hs2hV7MPTDA/WialpmSkYPI/AAAAAAAADqg/w7gklscPg_QqGbA0Plw0KKdWO4cPzV4LACLcBGAs/s400/IMG_9063.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ShOxuxDpZcE/WialqWJ-3UI/AAAAAAAADqo/TUnMjgo_L5M2AC-mBAzEKjw29r6k_5soQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_9064.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ShOxuxDpZcE/WialqWJ-3UI/AAAAAAAADqo/TUnMjgo_L5M2AC-mBAzEKjw29r6k_5soQCLcBGAs/s400/IMG_9064.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZsY1-PS7tRY/WialrXObwFI/AAAAAAAADq0/LKRosRrkw940gz1RU9EcGDnYCszkvLoIwCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_9068.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZsY1-PS7tRY/WialrXObwFI/AAAAAAAADq0/LKRosRrkw940gz1RU9EcGDnYCszkvLoIwCLcBGAs/s400/IMG_9068.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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Let the contest begin!</div>
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SublimeLayershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266175443539080935noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-64815650273155983312017-12-04T10:06:00.000-05:002017-12-04T10:06:16.230-05:00First Print Contest for my Supporters!I'm pleased to announce that I'll be holding a series of challenging print contests for my supporters conducted through my private Slack channel. Prints will be evaluated purely on technical attributes. I'm posting this here simply to let folks know that supporting my work has other advantages!<br />
<br />
This first contest is a very challenging model from Ferherez's <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2460981/#files" target="_blank">Random Octopus Generator</a>. Specifically, oco6.stl. Here are some render photos:<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QPTlc2s4yrk/WiVfwR8VQbI/AAAAAAAADqI/Q0kPTOL1xOAj30SStJGOgOuSLRdxZV5TgCLcBGAs/s1600/TopClean.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="814" data-original-width="1084" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QPTlc2s4yrk/WiVfwR8VQbI/AAAAAAAADqI/Q0kPTOL1xOAj30SStJGOgOuSLRdxZV5TgCLcBGAs/s640/TopClean.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MwDgBoOAEmQ/WiVfwR3vYDI/AAAAAAAADqA/eYdRG_ts_eMfXbmzy18I8AjriZBZ0I8GACEwYBhgL/s1600/BottomClean.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="929" data-original-width="1548" height="384" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MwDgBoOAEmQ/WiVfwR3vYDI/AAAAAAAADqA/eYdRG_ts_eMfXbmzy18I8AjriZBZ0I8GACEwYBhgL/s640/BottomClean.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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And here is some info about the contest:</div>
<h3>
Da Contest</h3>
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<ol>
<li>Michael will evaluate all submitted entries and pick the finalist as per the criteria described in Da Evaluating below</li>
<li>Winning entry will be mailed to Michael for inclusion in a blog post and/or YouTube video. Michael will pay shipping from any country.</li>
<li>The winner will be deemed "SublimeCreator" and will win a roll of Fillamentum PLA - your choice of color and I'll have it shipped direct to you.</li>
<li>All submissions must be made by midnight EST (GMT -05:00) on Tuesday, December 19, 2017</li>
<li>Winner will be announced on Friday, December 22, 2017</li>
</ol>
<h3>
Da Rules</h3>
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</div>
<ol>
<li>print the _octo6.stl_ full scale - no resizing</li>
<li>use any slicer of your choosing and any slicing tricks you want (variable/adaptive layer height, etc)</li>
<li>use support or no support as you choose - but if you use support, properly post-process the part (I will be looking for un-removed support!)</li>
<li>use an opaque filament - any type is fine as long as it is opaque</li>
<li>submit a photo of the completed first layer (don't be shy, this WILL be challenging!) - try to get as much of the layer in the photo, this will be tricky but do your best</li>
<li>take one or more photos of the top showing the areas in TopDetail.png</li>
<li>take one or more photos of the bottom showing the areas in BottomDetail.png</li>
<li>photos should be well lit and in focus</li>
<li>all entries must include a description of the slicer used, primary slicing attributes, print speeds (all of them), filament used, and printer and extruder and hot end used</li>
<li>ONLY FFF 3D printers</li>
<li>Only cropping is allowed on photos - no editing!</li>
</ol>
<h3>
Da Evaluating</h3>
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The primary evaluation criteria are based on three categories with the following point values:</div>
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<ol>
<li>first layer (30 pts)</li>
<ol>
<li>presence of gaps? minus (10 pts)</li>
<li>even and correct layer height? (20 pts)</li>
</ol>
<li>top detail (60 pts)</li>
<ol>
<li>blobbing or stringing? (10 pts)</li>
<li>crisp/well formed tenticle tips (circled in photo) (20 pts)</li>
<li>evidence of support? (10 pts)</li>
<li>good layer lines? (10 pts)</li>
</ol>
<li>clean octopus head top surface? (10 pts)</li>
<ol>
<li>bottom detail (10 pts)</li>
<li>evidence of support? (10 pts)</li>
</ol>
</ol>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iLCF9kQ-i38/WiVfwyo_YhI/AAAAAAAADqQ/Ht-AEWpmMMQRn1Dg3akgvQ2WoXKbCmwDACEwYBhgL/s1600/TopDetail.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="814" data-original-width="1084" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iLCF9kQ-i38/WiVfwyo_YhI/AAAAAAAADqQ/Ht-AEWpmMMQRn1Dg3akgvQ2WoXKbCmwDACEwYBhgL/s400/TopDetail.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--oTN-nmPKiE/WiVfwbu74NI/AAAAAAAADqQ/0uPSWzt40lcLy0PxRTk5g1njFmu2B_syQCEwYBhgL/s1600/BottomDetail.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="929" data-original-width="1548" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--oTN-nmPKiE/WiVfwbu74NI/AAAAAAAADqQ/0uPSWzt40lcLy0PxRTk5g1njFmu2B_syQCEwYBhgL/s400/BottomDetail.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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I'm happy to evaluate your prints if you post a link to the required entry info or email it to me. However, the winning entry will come from one of my supporters - that's one of the perks!</div>
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SublimeLayershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266175443539080935noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-37935054192911987482017-11-10T12:58:00.001-05:002017-11-10T12:59:16.702-05:00Why I love KISSlicer top 10 list<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mKDVX8wiZCc/WgXle1tjqjI/AAAAAAAADo0/apQygLbQsg8s1enOxBdxCtmfYK0vvJlfwCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/kiss-1-1-fullscreen_orig.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="701" data-original-width="1100" height="203" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mKDVX8wiZCc/WgXle1tjqjI/AAAAAAAADo0/apQygLbQsg8s1enOxBdxCtmfYK0vvJlfwCPcBGAYYCw/s320/kiss-1-1-fullscreen_orig.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "lucida grande" , "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif;">Here is my complete top 10 list of why I love KISSlicer.</span><br />
<ul>
<li><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "lucida grande" , "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Why I love KISSlicer: Reason #10 - </span><a class="postlink" href="http://www.sublimelayers.com/2017/10/why-i-love-kisslicer-reason-10.html" style="background-color: white; border-bottom-color: rgb(93, 143, 189); border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 1px; color: #5d8fbd; direction: ltr; font-family: "Lucida Grande", "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-decoration: none; unicode-bidi: embed;"><span style="font-style: italic; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">Lower Mesh in Z</span> feature</a></li>
<li><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "lucida grande" , "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Why I love KISSlicer: Reason #9 - </span><a class="postlink" href="http://www.sublimelayers.com/2017/10/why-i-love-kisslicer-reason-9.html" style="background-color: white; border-bottom-color: rgb(93, 143, 189); border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 1px; color: #5d8fbd; direction: ltr; font-family: "Lucida Grande", "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-decoration: none; unicode-bidi: embed;"><span style="font-style: italic; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">Load G-Code Settings</span> feature</a></li>
<li><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "lucida grande" , "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Why I love KISSlicer: Reason #8 - </span><a class="postlink" href="http://www.sublimelayers.com/2017/10/why-i-love-kisslicer-reason-8.html" style="background-color: white; border-bottom-color: rgb(93, 143, 189); border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 1px; color: #5d8fbd; direction: ltr; font-family: "Lucida Grande", "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-decoration: none; unicode-bidi: embed;"><span style="font-style: italic; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">fractional loops</span></a></li>
<li><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "lucida grande" , "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Why I love KISSlicer: Reason #7 - </span><a class="postlink" href="http://www.sublimelayers.com/2017/11/why-i-love-kisslicer-reason-7.html" style="background-color: white; border-bottom-color: rgb(93, 143, 189); border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 1px; color: #5d8fbd; direction: ltr; font-family: "Lucida Grande", "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-decoration: none; unicode-bidi: embed;">setting, changing and managing print speeds is really simple and intuitive</a></li>
<li><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "lucida grande" , "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Why I love KISSlicer: Reason #6 - </span><a class="postlink" href="http://www.sublimelayers.com/2017/11/why-i-love-kisslicer-reason-6.html" style="background-color: white; border-bottom-color: rgb(93, 143, 189); border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 1px; color: #5d8fbd; direction: ltr; font-family: "Lucida Grande", "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-decoration: none; unicode-bidi: embed;"><span style="font-style: italic; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">Adaptive Layer Heights</span> feature</a></li>
<li><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "lucida grande" , "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Why I love KISSlicer: Reason #5 - </span><a class="postlink" href="http://www.sublimelayers.com/2017/11/why-i-love-kisslicer-reason-5.html" style="background-color: white; border-bottom-color: rgb(93, 143, 189); border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 1px; color: #5d8fbd; direction: ltr; font-family: "Lucida Grande", "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-decoration: none; unicode-bidi: embed;">advanced string and blob mitigation features</a></li>
<li><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "lucida grande" , "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Why I love KISSlicer: Reason #4 - </span><a class="postlink" href="http://www.sublimelayers.com/2017/11/why-i-love-kisslicer-reason-4.html" style="background-color: white; border-bottom-color: rgb(93, 143, 189); border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 1px; color: #5d8fbd; direction: ltr; font-family: "Lucida Grande", "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-decoration: none; unicode-bidi: embed;"><span style="font-style: italic; margin: 0px; padding: 0px;">Rounded Infill</span></a></li>
<li><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "lucida grande" , "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Why I love KISSlicer: Reason #3 - </span><a class="postlink" href="http://www.sublimelayers.com/2017/11/why-i-love-kisslicer-reason-3.html" style="background-color: white; border-bottom-color: rgb(93, 143, 189); border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 1px; color: #5d8fbd; direction: ltr; font-family: "Lucida Grande", "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-decoration: none; unicode-bidi: embed;">Wizards</a></li>
<li><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "lucida grande" , "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Why I love KISSlicer: Reason #2 - </span><a class="postlink" href="http://www.sublimelayers.com/2017/11/why-i-love-kisslicer-reason-2.html" style="background-color: white; border-bottom-color: rgb(93, 143, 189); border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 1px; color: #5d8fbd; direction: ltr; font-family: "Lucida Grande", "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-decoration: none; unicode-bidi: embed;">individual Settings files</a></li>
</ul>
<span style="background-color: white; font-family: "lucida grande" , "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">and my #1 reason for loving KISSlicer is...</span><br />
<ul>
<li><span style="background-color: white; font-family: "lucida grande" , "trebuchet ms" , "verdana" , "helvetica" , "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">Why I love KISSlicer: Reason #1 - </span><a class="postlink" href="http://www.kisslicertalk.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=2059&p=5990#p5990" style="background-color: white; border-bottom-color: rgb(93, 143, 189); border-bottom-style: solid; border-bottom-width: 1px; color: #5d8fbd; direction: ltr; font-family: "Lucida Grande", "Trebuchet MS", Verdana, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-decoration: none; unicode-bidi: embed;">Predictability</a></li>
</ul>
SublimeLayershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266175443539080935noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-41335690790682257242017-11-10T12:48:00.003-05:002017-11-10T12:48:55.788-05:00Why I love KISSlicer: Reason #1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Well, here we are at my top reason for loving KISSlicer. By way of background, I want to go on record by saying I'm at expert at slicing - and not just with KISS. My g-code background goes back 17 years on CNC milling machines. I learned how to write g-code by hand and to manually modify g-code produced by CAM applications (the machining equivalent to a slicer) to get better results.<br />
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So when I made the move (~10 years ago) to 3D printing and slicers, I was comfortable. More importantly, I had already learned how to analyze g-code in order to see what's "good" and what's "so-so". These skills carry over to slicer generated g-code. And <i><b>there is</b></i> a difference between good paths and not-so-good paths even though the end result (print) might look nearly the same.<br />
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I've spent 1000s of hours studying slicers and their g-code. I'm expert with all the major players: Slic3r (and Prusa Edition), Cura, MatterSlice, Skeinforge, Craftware and Simplify3D to name few. I've also <i>developed</i> slicing utilities to generate code that current slicers can't - like a 3D printed fishing fly, an SVG file to g-code utility and programs to combine layers from multiple g-code files to get exactly the results I want.<br />
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The one thing I can say is that, without a doubt, for those willing to truly understand the slicing process and the resulting g-code, KISSlicer is by far the most predictable. And that, dear readers, is my <i><b>Why I love KISSlicer: reason #1 - Predictability</b></i>. When I slice a part in KISS, I know what I'm going to get. When I tweak a parameter, KISS doesn't do weird/inexplicable/stupid things, it does what I expect it to do, predictably. I'm not going to go through a litany of <i>stupid slicer tricks</i> here but I have models and configuration examples for every slicer in the list above that result in g-code that simply defies explanation - and not just slicer crashes but legitimate, head-scratching, <i>whydeydodat</i>? examples. Thank you KISSlicer, I'm really looking forward to the next great thing!</div>
SublimeLayershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266175443539080935noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1024848558336119865.post-30711537083430546782017-11-09T16:27:00.000-05:002017-11-09T16:27:11.399-05:00Why I love KISSlicer: Reason #2I thought long and hard about <b><i>Why I love KISSlicer: Reason #2</i></b>. This one could easily have been my #1 reason simply due to the amount of time it saves me managing my own settings and sharing my settings files to help others.<br />
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I'm sure you guessed it - reason #2 is individual settings files! This one is so simple but so BIG. No longer are all of my Printer (14 of them) settings glomed together in a single file like other slicers do. No longer are all of my Style settings, my Material settings or my Support settings crammed together (with the Printer settings of course) into a single mega-settings-file. Now, I can copy, save, and restore individual files for each of my 100 or so settings. And regarding "restore", KISSlicer's Reference settings keep a safe copy of all my settings so they can't be inadvertently (or advertently) changed!<br />
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This feature is so cool and powerful that I talked about it for almost 20 minutes in <a href="https://youtu.be/8YsB0EYH8ck" target="_blank">KISSlicer Tutorial: Settings, Profiles and Projects – Oh My!</a> It's worth the watch to learn how to use these capabilities to maximum advantage.<br />
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<br />SublimeLayershttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07266175443539080935noreply@blogger.com0